do you have a link for it? all i can find is the one for commercial vehicles and busses.

 

Advance auto parts has them for $38 in this area, cost will be different in your location, I'm sure. You might also want to look into new shocks and struts, as they can have a major effect on braking performance. New rotors may be in order too, if they can fit into the budget.

Pads:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=219&ptset=A

I'm not finding anything in the way of affordable rotors that'll boost performance, but check out the ones you've got and make sure they're in good shape. And remember to break the new pads in, it takes like half an hour, and you'll get much better results for the life of the brakes for it. 30 moderate stops from 30 mph with a 30 second break between each.

 

Check E-bay for a set of rotors. I got a good set of cross drilled rotors for my truck for about $110

 

Measure the diameter of the rear drums. The heavy duty one should be a little bit larger.

 

I happened accross some fairly low priced ones on SummitRacing.com, not great, but not horrible at $70ish a piece. The cross drilled rotors will greatly improve your braking performance, as they disipate the thin layer of gas that builds between pad and rotor as the assembly heats (it's almost like a hydroplaning effect on your braking assembly) In additiong to that, the increase in surface area from the cross drilling will add to heat disipation, and all of this means reduced brake fade, and fade is your number one enemy in high speed braking. But like I said, if you still aren't satisfied with brake performance when you're done, look into suspension work, it's probably past due anyway. Nobody pays attention to shocks or struts anymore.

 

its going in for inspection next tuesday, and im going to have the struts installed while its there (the make a pop/grind noise when you push the car sideways). that should help a lot to have them replaced. also, i have the 4 wheel anti-lock disc brakes. rotors front and back

 

Worry about beefing up the front first, since it takes about 75% of the braking. As for rear pads, I would go with these, since the Titaniums aren't made for the rear of your car.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=220&ptset=A

Another thought comes to mind, though... What's your tire pressure at?

 

right now, the tire pressure is prolly around 35-40 lbs. the front tires are bald on the outside, and nearly mint on the inside (hence my need for alignment and struts). the steel cords are showing on the front outsides. however, i didnt get any lock up, now the pulsation of abs interfering. i might go and do some testing of the brakes thursday when the parents arent home. the peddle is very firm, but it takes about half the peddle before the car starts slowing down.

also, how can i make sure those pads from parts america are specificly for my car?

 

Might want to look for leaks in the hydraulic system, and if you know how to, check the seals inside the master cylinder. I must caution you, if you do take it apart DO NOT use ANYTHING with petroleum on it, and if it needs to be honed (assuming it's a cast iron cylinder, it shoud be if it's damaged inside, if it's aluminium, it should be replaced if it's damaged.) use brake fluid to lubricate, not oil of any sort. You would also do well to gravity bleed the whole system and get all the old fluid out and replace with new. You would probably do well to just rebuild all the brake components anyway, and if you need any help with this, I'd be glad to explain in detail how to do each piece. All told, it should cost less than $50 to do it, including parts and tools (assuming you already own an electric drill, if not, figure that in too.)

I'm gonna guess the tires are overinflated to make use of what tread is left, yes?

 

they are overinflated to help get more rubber on the road. if there are any leaks, wouldnt there be brake fluid all over things? the previous owner said the brakes were done not the long ago, and the front and rear brake hoses are brand new. i still want to go out and test them though, just to make sure. what should i figure for a 60-0 stopping distance, about 300 feet? i will also have the mechanic inspect the brake pads since its a part of state inspection, ill just make sure he checks them all. i will most likely upgrade the pads anyway since i will be drag racing. if worst comes to worst, would you be able to personally help me flufy tiger? baltimore isnt too long of a drive.