87 Iroc z z28 restoration

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  #21  
Old 03-12-2012, 11:53 PM
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dam, im gonna have to talk to my friend and see what hes thinking.
 
  #22  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:54 PM
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So i guess i had it wrong, i talked to my buddy with the lt1 and turns out i would only be useing the 350 block from it, and then using most of the stuff from my 305 and puting it on that block. So i guess i wouldnt have an lt1 just a 350 block and maybe an lt1 cam. And since my block has over 100k on it and the 350 only has 55k on it, it should work out for me. I dont know all the specifics but this guy thats gonna do it seems to be pretty knowledgable.
 
  #23  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:56 PM
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Also he said the tranny should be fine because its a world class t5 that has strong internals, so i would probably only have to worry about the rear end and he said i should be fine as long as i dont put street slicks on it. Im aiming for around 300horse power and i should be safe.
 
  #24  
Old 03-18-2012, 12:50 PM
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The transmission being a World Class has nothing to do with strength. The only differences between a WC T5 and a NWC T5 is the WC is a single overdrive with different synchro's and bearings.
If it's been torn down and built up, that's a different story but the stock rating for them was 265 lb/ft of torque which you'll put more than that down. Just as a reference, Ford used the T5 behind it's V6's and V8's through the late 80s up through the 2000s. While GM switched to the T56's on the V8. Tells you something about Ford and the T5's right there

As far as the rear end goes, you should be quite all right as long as you stick with street tires. I'd still start putting money away for a 9in, 12 bolt, or if affordable, a S60.

And with engine, what exactly is being taken off your 305 and put on the 350 block?
 
  #25  
Old 03-18-2012, 05:03 PM
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Im not sure, i will be sitting down for a pow wow, before i give the green light on the 350, tomorrow im bringing it down to my friend to check it out and see whats the matter with it as it sits. I gave her a bath today and she shines up pretty good for a $1000 car, other then the top that needs to be burnt.
 
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  #26  
Old 03-19-2012, 08:23 AM
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Yeah, I would get everything down and set on paper so to speak before you actually give the green light to go.

I'm no fan of convertibles, or t-tops, but she doesn't look too bad. I'd be tempted to buy it.
 
  #27  
Old 03-20-2012, 10:35 PM
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Ive decided to stick with the 305 thats in the car. I drove it to my friends shop and almost made it there. When i left my house to drive it to the shop my heart was pumping pretty good, because ive only driven this thing one other time, and that was with bad gas and almost didnt make it home. I didnt know if it was gonna stall coming to a stop sign and then not start, so i endnd up rollin thru and cutting some guy off, then i got on the gas and went no where, lol, sounded like the car wanted to thow up. But i could get it up to speed eventually. In 3rd and 4th gear it was driving nice around 40 but i couldnt get on it, and when i came to a stop it didnt die like i thought it was gonna, but 2mins from the shop it died goin thru a stop sign, i tried to start it back up and the battery was dead, i jumped it with a jumper pack and it started up, and i made it to the shop. But every time i went to give it gas it bogged down and it back fired a couple of times pretty good, and supposedly blew out some black smoke. I did a fuel pressure check it was at about 5 or 10 pounds i believe, so i started doing the fuel pump, i have the rear end disconected and im gonna finish it in the morning. I think the alternator might be junk because the battery was basicly new. So ill probably do that to. But i have a good feeling after driving it today that it dosent need much. The back seat floor under the seats have some bad rust around the drain plug, im gonna have to cut in a new piece to fix it. Ill have to do the breaks, the fuel lines looked ugly to me but I was told their not bad. I thought the speedo worked but i was wrong it seems to float around 30 i think, i have to look again, so that would mean only my rpm gauge works. I checked the compression on one of the cylinders real quick and it was around 120ish. Ill probably check the other ones i just didnt have time. I also felt like a million bucks when i got up to speed, it was about 78degrees out the sun was shining and the top was down.... Ill let u know what happens after i finish the fuel pump.
 
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  #28  
Old 03-21-2012, 08:15 AM
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Since you're doing the fuel pump, before you put the tank and the rear end back up in there, look up how to make a trap door in the hatch so next time you don't have to tear all of that out. Also, change the fuel filter too if you haven't done so. Chances are it's not in the best condition.

Before you spend money on a new alternator, take it to your local Advance or Autozone and have them test it for free. Better to know that it really is bad than spending a $150 on a new one. And get the battery charged too. Usually takes 35 minutes for a quick charge that usually does it for a good battery.

120psi sounds right in the ballpark.
 
  #29  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:10 PM
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I did the fuel pump, that was deffinately making it run funny. But i havnt tested the car out more then a lap around the shop, at the moment. I droped the rear end and took the gas tank out and changed the pump. I also cleaned the under body and undercoated the whole bottom except around the bottoms of the rear buckets because they both have big holes. I plan to cut the bad areas and either weld or rivt + a sealer glue, some tin or steal. When the car was sitting the back window on broke and water was sitting there, but just in those spots. So after doing the fuel pump and under coating, i greased my fittings, i detoured to pulling the seats and center console out, and then i ripped out the rugs. This car was a squirle nest, i found enough eggcorns for them to survive a few winters. But i got all that out, and the rugs. But i still havent put my muffler back on, i think i might go get a flowmaster. Im looking for carpet online, i need to get a center console lid, new window switchs, they broke coming off. Its gonna need new weatherstiping on the doors and probably around the convertable top, it needs a new top, thats another ordeal im gonna have to deal with because it might be damaged on the convertibel top frame, but ill figure that out after i get the muffler back on and see how it runs, it sounded real good after the pump and started up much easier, then with the old one.......
 
  #30  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:13 PM
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I also did the rear shocks, and i did not make a trap door for the fuel pump. It was tempting tho.
 


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