Ugh still isnt acting right

Old Jan 7, 2011 | 12:40 AM
  #31  
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just checked those vacuum lines to the emissions vacuum canister and it is the one on the left--for the gas tank.
 
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 02:33 AM
  #32  
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I am really curious to see pics, can't think of what bolt you could be missing on float bowl of 600 Holley. Mine only has the 4 bolts that hold float bowl on, the float level sight plug,and the needle and seat adjustment set-up.
Why don't you just pull every vaccum line off the carb and plug all the fittings on the carb, don't forget the one on the back side bottom of throttle plate in front of distributor. The car should run, you just won't have vaccum advance to distributor,but that is OK for now,just trying to see if carb is working right for now.
 
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 02:35 AM
  #33  
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Do you know how to check float level on that carb?? Real easy
 
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 08:31 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by sycopath2316@yahoo.com
just checked those vacuum lines to the emissions vacuum canister and it is the one on the left--for the gas tank.
Then that explains why the engine ran funky when you plugged that hose with your finger. The gas tank needs to vent, and plugging that hose vapor locked it.



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Last edited by Camaro 69; Jan 7, 2011 at 08:38 AM.
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:18 AM
  #35  
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A couple more things...is the hose you capped with your finger connected to the canister in front, or was it the one that goes to the gas tank? If it was the tank vent hose, then that supports what I just said above. If the hose is on the canister and disconnected, then your engine is running with an open vacuum line. That will speed up your idle (and lower it when you plug the hose), and can also cause runnability issues.
Also, did you ever get the fuel pump issue resolved? Which one are you running off of?
 
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 02:44 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Camaro 69
A couple more things...is the hose you capped with your finger connected to the canister in front, or was it the one that goes to the gas tank? If it was the tank vent hose, then that supports what I just said above. If the hose is on the canister and disconnected, then your engine is running with an open vacuum line. That will speed up your idle (and lower it when you plug the hose), and can also cause runnability issues.
Also, did you ever get the fuel pump issue resolved? Which one are you running off of?
the hose that i capped is connected to the canister... the other end that is supposed to be plugged in was where i was capping it off...
 
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 02:47 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by carguy68ssrs
I am really curious to see pics, can't think of what bolt you could be missing on float bowl of 600 Holley. Mine only has the 4 bolts that hold float bowl on, the float level sight plug,and the needle and seat adjustment set-up.
Why don't you just pull every vaccum line off the carb and plug all the fittings on the carb, don't forget the one on the back side bottom of throttle plate in front of distributor. The car should run, you just won't have vaccum advance to distributor,but that is OK for now,just trying to see if carb is working right for now.
yea im missing one of those 4 bolts that hold the float bowl on... my mechanic rebuilt my carb and one of his grandkids we think might have lost it... and i will do that... ran my battery down yesterday tryin to figure out what it was doing so could explain things better lol... need to invest in a jumper box lol... going to try to get it charged today or tomorrow... when i do i will video it and post so that can see and hear exactly what its doing
 
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 03:29 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by sycopath2316@yahoo.com
the hose that i capped is connected to the canister... the other end that is supposed to be plugged in was where i was capping it off...
OK, after rereading your previous post, that's what I was gathering you were saying.
Is any of that other stuff, as shown in the diagram, still there and connected?
An open vacuum hose will raise the engine idle speed, and plugging it lowered it back down. Sounds like whoever removed that hose may have slowed the idle down at the carb. Try temporarily plugging that hose with a screw, and adjust the idle up at the carb. Then you can work on your scavenger hunt.
 
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 03:43 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Camaro 69
OK, after rereading your previous post, that's what I was gathering you were saying.
Is any of that other stuff, as shown in the diagram, still there and connected?
An open vacuum hose will raise the engine idle speed, and plugging it lowered it back down. Sounds like whoever removed that hose may have slowed the idle down at the carb. Try temporarily plugging that hose with a screw, and adjust the idle up at the carb. Then you can work on your scavenger hunt.
lmao scavenger hunt it is... the original electrical system and computer--i believe--are still intact even though there is no need for them... previous owner got lazy on his tpi-carb swap and didnt do the electrical system... cant say i blame him... and cant complain seeing how i only paid 1200 for the car... and probably could have easily gotten it for 1000... i have found another piece from the canister that is not connected to anything... i am fixing to upload pics onto my computer so i can post them... hopefully i can get my battery charged today so that i can do the video tomorrow... i know when i got the car the idle was actually really high... i think it was probably around 1200 idle... maybe--most likely--it was higher... none of the cluster works so i am not for sure... am really wondering if there isnt a pinched gasket in the carb or maybe the gasket between the carb and the block???
 
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 04:26 PM
  #40  
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ok have a few pictures for now to show about the canister...

mystery cable at canister

mystery cable end

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