K, that first picture looks a lil better! Were you using fiber header gaskets? Looks like it. Try the Percy's seal-4-good next time and see how you like em.

 

Yeah, I was using the cheap fiber gaskets. I will try the Percy's when I get my new headers, along with locking header bolts. I never want to change the damn header gaskets on this car AGAIN!

 

I'm sure you prolly figured out by now that cheap gaskets aren't cheap when you have to keep replacing them!

 

I tried a set of Mr. Gasket dead soft aluminum gaskets. I couldn't get them in the way my exhaust was setup. Fought with it for hours and ended up returning the gaskets.

 

Don't forget to do a check of the flange on any new headers before you install them! I've seen the extra expensive headers have warped flanges right from the factory.
Put a 2' straight edge across the flanges and check it with light behind for warping. If it's warped a lot send them back, if it's only a little just get out your file and tocuh them up before installing.
I've gone through this on every set of headers I ever installed (cheap or spendy) and never had a leak yet, even with average gaskets.

 

Well the engine is out, and completely torn down to the short block. No abnormal wear and no sludge. Overall it looks great.

Only thing I found was this on the timing cover:



Looks like condensation buildup in the timing cover? It was a good amount for only 5,000 miles... None on the chain or anywhere else on the engine, just on the inside of the timing cover.

Here's everything torn down:

 

Well I've made a little progress on the car. I lost my job last week, so things are going to slow down quite a bit. For the last few days I've been working on removing the front clip and everything in the engine bay, then stripping all the paint from the engine bay. There's some rust on the fire wall over the transmission tunnel as well as below the HVAC box (see pics.) Once I get a coat of primer on everything, I'll start on the engine. Couple phone pics:

 

Good news, I got my job back AND I sold my old heads, cam, oil pan, distributor, valve covers, timing cover, and intake. I'm getting $250 for that stuff plus an A/C delete box from an S10.

Looks like I'm back on track

 

Alrighty then, glad to hear that!

 

Okay, the last couple of weeks have been slow considering all I've been doing is stripping parts and painting. I decided to go all out and drop the K frame (was pretty simple considering there wasn't much left holding it in, lol.) I stripped it as well as the rest of the front end components. Realized that all of my tie rods had slop in them (originals, no doubt) as well as my idler arm and center link. I bought all new tie rods, new idler arm, center link, adjuster sleeves, and ball joints. The BJ's weren't too bad, but for $16 bucks a piece I wasn't going to not replace them, esp. on my new arms.

I painted the K frame and control arms in Rustoleum black hammer tone, looks great and hides the imperfections in the stamped steel (and is pretty durable as well.) I painted the struts, spindles, and dust shields in gloss black high temp engine paint, and clear coated them with engine clear as well. Springs are Krylon Rust Tough semi-flat. I then assembled the control arms with the new BJ's and new Energy Suspension bushings (I've had them left over from my kit forever, now there's no factory rubber left on the car.)


I then realized that the rust below the HVAC box was worse than I thought, water draining from the cowl had actual rusted a 2"x4" hole into the engine bay. I cut out the bad rot, and welded a new piece of sheet metal from the inside of the cowl, then hit it with a rust converter and sealed it up on the inside and slapped some bondo over it. You can't see it once the heater box is back in so I didn't bother smoothing the bondo.

Got the engine bay all primed and hit it with two light coats of Duplicolor gloss black engine paint. It's resistant to chemicals and shines up nice, so I opted to do this rather than going through the trouble of shooting an enamel on. I need to get the final wet coat on it, then I will put two coats of clear over it.

I got the K frame bolted in and the control arms attached. I'm having trouble with the springs as most of you know, but I got rained out Saturday and haven't had a chance to get back on it.

On to the pics: