Killer Z Build Thread, Round Two

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  #11  
Old 12-25-2009, 09:17 PM
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i was thinking of going with the spohn tubular front suspension componants. i fugure that with those parts, and as well as aluminum heads and eliminated emissions crap, and moving the washer tank and battery to the back with additional rear weight of the moser 12 bolt im getting, it will really balance out my car to run through some twisties. itll also hold up a lot longer if it pulls the front wheels off the ground when im at the track. but i think that would be a bit of overkill for your project.
 
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Old 12-25-2009, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by microkid
i was thinking of going with the spohn tubular front suspension componants. i fugure that with those parts, and as well as aluminum heads and eliminated emissions crap, and moving the washer tank and battery to the back with additional rear weight of the moser 12 bolt im getting, it will really balance out my car to run through some twisties. itll also hold up a lot longer if it pulls the front wheels off the ground when im at the track. but i think that would be a bit of overkill for your project.
That's what I'm thinking as well. It was appealing because of the additional clearance added when using long tubes, but like I said it's a lot of money for little gain.

If you do it, I would go with the BMR K frame before the Spohn. I just like the overall design better.
 
  #13  
Old 12-27-2009, 08:07 PM
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ive looked around, and i like the spohn the most. it also helps that theyre business is only about an hour and a half away, so i can save myself about $100 or so on shipping.
 
  #14  
Old 01-28-2010, 11:48 AM
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Okay, a little update. The car will be heading to my buddy's school next week after we get the engine pulled. There he's going to be doing all the body work, and giving it a fresh coat of black paint.

So far I've purchased the Vortec heads assembled with Comp Cams valve springs and retainers and all the machine work done, Weiand Stealth intake manifold, aluminum oil pan, one piece oil pan gasket, full engine gasket set, Crane Blue Racer 1064 cam and Eaton anti pump up lifters, GMPP aluminum timing cover, brass freeze plug set, an engine stand, and an adjustable push rod length checker.

I've also purchased all of the body stuff mentioned before. Just need a new rear bumper cover and a hood.

Pics:

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  #15  
Old 01-28-2010, 02:19 PM
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Looks great man.
 
  #16  
Old 03-08-2010, 10:05 PM
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Well I'm WAY behind schedule, but the engine is finally on it's way out. Started today around 2pm and by 6:30 I had the exhaust dropped, transmission out, everything topside removed/disconnected, etc. All that's left is the engine mount bolts (I'm currently waiting on an engine hoist.)

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  #17  
Old 03-08-2010, 10:14 PM
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Don't you have swinging room to yank the trans while it's still connected to the engine? It's a helluva lot easier that way, especially going back in.
 
  #18  
Old 03-08-2010, 10:38 PM
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Yeah, there's room. I just opted to remove the transmission as it makes it easier to get the engine out without a load leveler. The transmission in this thing is a breeze to remove anyways, took me about an hour and a half.

This is how it originally went in:

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  #19  
Old 03-08-2010, 10:43 PM
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Man, that engine and tranny sure did get dirty in a hurry. What happened, did you fire the maid?
 
  #20  
Old 03-08-2010, 10:50 PM
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Ha, it wasn't as bad as it looks in the pictures. I had an oil leak from the rear of the intake as well as the rear main, so that put a nice grimy dusting on the rear of the engine and transmission.

Then all the black on the heads and block is exhaust carbon from the POS Jegs brand headers that warped and blew header gaskets every month. The rest is from disassembly.

The pictures in the original post are from a few weeks before it was parked, so you can see I did my best to keep it clean
 


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