Sounds like once the motor dies it will crank (engine will rotate by the starter) but not start. The fact your alt and battery went bad is not a huge suprise. Its most likey not the cause of the issue its the result of excessive cranking. Any time you have a cranking proble and an older alt or battery it can push a failing part over the edge. That why many times Atl and Battery fail within weeks of eachother. A failing battery over stressed an older Alt or visversa. I would not be suprised if your starter went too.

The key to tracking down your issue is to find out why the car will not start while its in the no start mode. Step one, Is it getting fuel and Spark? With your TBI you can see if its getting fuel and and I would suggest getting a cheap spark tester from a parts store. If you are not getting fuel you will need to find out if it due to a lack of fuel pump pressure or a lack of signal to fire the injector. Same with spark if you are not getting spark we will need to track down why. If you are getting niether that would narrow it down a lot.

There is a curcuit that will shut down the fuel pump if it does not detect and oil pressure. Either a loose connection or an bad sending unit could cause this but it should restart after 20 seconds not minutes as long as you turn the key all the way off then back on.

 

That would give you a brake problem not a running issue

Could be, Filter should be replace whenever there is a problem like this.

If by that you mean the Fuel pump relay I would say that is a suspect.

See my previous post

Not true, Failed wire can occur due to a short (when power flows someplace its not suppost to) The smell and melting is only when a "short" over loads a circuit and cause the insulation to melt you can have a short to another circuit and power somthing that is not suppost to have power but NOT overload the circuit and more comon then shorts are opens. An open occues when a wire breaks and power can not flow. A lot of times the wire will break inside of the insulation and look fine from the outside. It can also work some time but depend on outside stress it will lose connection a force like "Stopping to fast" could be a trigger for this.

 

Well we put a brand new battery in her today started right up, didn't fail at first when only moving 6-10feet forward brake, or 6-10 feet backwards and brake.. went about 20-25feet down the drive hit brake and died. Sounds like there might actually be a small vac leak somewhere (EXTREMELY SMALL). And for some reason about 5-6secs before the car dies the oil light comes on.. could this be a sign of something?

 

Is there any oil in it?, what viscosity? When was the last oil change. Maybe the pressure switch is loosing pressure and shutting off the fuel pump.

 

check vacuum with a carb spray cleaner...spay at idle any possible part u think is the culprit.....if you hit the leak, idle may rise a few rpm's

 

And here is a view pics for those of you wondering what my 900$ car looks like (I was going to pay 1.1k but ended up w/ only having to pay 900$ )












Well I got more but these are the decent ones. I'll take a few under the hood tomorrow for you guys. (Car is getting brought home while I'm at work tomorrow so. It'll be easier then driving 25miles to it daily lol.)

 

Did you even read my post?

Since the motor is shutting down right after the oil light comes on and they are seprate sensor there is a good chance that you car is losing oil pressure. This will cause the car to shut off.

 

those pictures are two big. make em smaller please.

 

I don't know how to make them smaller. And we fixed the car part of it shutting off when you press brake in and the oil pressure light coming on only had about a quart of oil in it... so I just did a full oil change. Also we think we are 99.9% sure its the brake booster, when you push the pedal in you hear a HUGE sucking noise from the pedal and dad said that was the brake booster going out, so I order a new one today. Should be in tomorrow or day after. Also went ahead and got new spark plugs,wires, and a distributor cap. So she's more or less fully tuned up. Sounds great running. I'll get some more pics in tomorrow anyone wanna tell me how to make pics small?

 

One question, does your car have cruise control? Before you go tearing into the brake booster, get your head under the dash, look up at the brake pedal assembly, and see if you have a "switch" with vacuum lines going to it. Don't know if your year has one, but some models had a vacuum controlled cruise control, with a vacuum override switch at the brake pedal. Hitting the brakes would switch off the vacuum connection, disabling cruise control. I've had one of those switches go bad on me, and you could hear a loud vacuum leak when stepping on the brake pedal. It fooled me into thinking it was a bad booster, until I gave it a close look.