Just got this car Help quick plx!
#11
yes that too....and if so...does the engine itself just die or does it act like it kills all ur electrical power as if u shut the key off?
#12
It's like only dieing when in motion and everything works and it acts like it will act like it's going to turn over but it won't. Like the fuel pump is the only thing not working. I don't understand it.
Last edited by 86CamaroMan08; 02-11-2010 at 11:02 PM.
#13
And one other thing it did today was when I was sitting fixing to pull out it died @ the end of the driveway.. just idling.. it acts like it's not getting enough fuel also. I'm not sure if hitting the brake just is a bad timing and the fuel filter is clogged up and not allowing fuel to travel threw after so long, and that's why after 10-15mins it's good to start again or what... any ideas guys?
#14
Okay either you guys gave up on me or something , but a few new options I've had thrown @ me from friend around me.
1. A clog in a vac line from the brake pedal to the intake.
2. Fuel Pump/Filter not working properly.
3. Relays to the fuel pump to the motor.
4. Brake Boosters
5. Alternator not working properly. (Have to jump it every time I start the car, and I was told the brake takes a lot of power to use.)
6. Bad wiring (I don't think it's this because you don't smell melting wires, and plus there is a whole and I can see a good 85-90% of my wires w/o even trying and I don't see any melted wires.)
Well guys if you know a way to check these certain ones maybe I can narrow it down I only have 300$ to fix this car w/ at the moment to get it in decent enough shape to run me back and forth to work.
1. A clog in a vac line from the brake pedal to the intake.
2. Fuel Pump/Filter not working properly.
3. Relays to the fuel pump to the motor.
4. Brake Boosters
5. Alternator not working properly. (Have to jump it every time I start the car, and I was told the brake takes a lot of power to use.)
6. Bad wiring (I don't think it's this because you don't smell melting wires, and plus there is a whole and I can see a good 85-90% of my wires w/o even trying and I don't see any melted wires.)
Well guys if you know a way to check these certain ones maybe I can narrow it down I only have 300$ to fix this car w/ at the moment to get it in decent enough shape to run me back and forth to work.
Last edited by 86CamaroMan08; 02-13-2010 at 11:14 AM.
#15
Have the alternator checked at a local auto parts store, they usualy do it free.
Pull off the hose at the booster and clean it out, I doubt its clogged though.
Could be a loose wire, get an ohm meter and check it out.
I am thinking its fuel delivery related though, as camaro 69 was getting to. If the car is in motion the fuel is sloshing around, there could be some debris in the tank intermitently cloggin the line, perhaps the fuel system needs to be bled. You said you just bought it.... do you know how old the gas is in the tank... old fuel can cause these problems too. Drain the tank, purge the lines (unhook the line at the carb- remove the filter , put a can where the filter was and blow the old fuel into the can now get a new filter) put fresh fuel in it, prime the lines and see how it goes - I think that would be the cheapest route.
EDIT: dont forget to remove the line at the fuel pump too, compressed air might damage it. And clean out the tank.
Pull off the hose at the booster and clean it out, I doubt its clogged though.
Could be a loose wire, get an ohm meter and check it out.
I am thinking its fuel delivery related though, as camaro 69 was getting to. If the car is in motion the fuel is sloshing around, there could be some debris in the tank intermitently cloggin the line, perhaps the fuel system needs to be bled. You said you just bought it.... do you know how old the gas is in the tank... old fuel can cause these problems too. Drain the tank, purge the lines (unhook the line at the carb- remove the filter , put a can where the filter was and blow the old fuel into the can now get a new filter) put fresh fuel in it, prime the lines and see how it goes - I think that would be the cheapest route.
EDIT: dont forget to remove the line at the fuel pump too, compressed air might damage it. And clean out the tank.
#17
take the fuel filter out and dump whats in the filter it in a clear jar. look to see if its full of crap. if its clear and u can blow threw it no problem then it should be ok. while u have the filter off turn the key on (for a couple seconds) and see if u have good flow. check your voltage at the battery while not running (should be 12.5) and running. (should be 13.5)what is it? if u have a weak coil a low voltage situation will cause the motor to quit and a really low battery will not let the motor run at all. clean the battery terminals and the cable ends with a wire brush. while u are doing that look for lose or damaged wires at the battery. also look and see if u can see were any of the wires or battery terminals may be shorting. is the battery bolted down or laying in the there with nothing holding it down. it could be moving enough to short on something or alowing one of the wires to short. if its still running for u have someone hold the brake down while its running and get under the hood and move the vacumn hoses around and listen for any sucking noises or if the car quits, if it does either look closer at the hose u are messing with.
if its dieing at a stand still now its getting worse and may be pointing at the fuel pump.
if its dieing at a stand still now its getting worse and may be pointing at the fuel pump.
#19
Well the battery is bone dead, we have had to jump it every time. We took the alternator to a parts store yesterday and it's bad we got another on on order will be here wed. So we are going to try and put a new battery in it for testing purposes only. And then try putting 5g of gas and a whole bottle of fuel Injection cleaner. If it still has the problem, I am replacing the fuel pump and filter. If that doesn't fix it we are going to try wires. I will get some pics up very very soon (Gotta find a way to get the car home.. lol.) And let you guys see what I am dealing with. Alright post soon, keep me updated on new things to try!~
#20
With the voltage in Line (12.5-13.8) you can check the fuel pressure. If u have a TBI injection (like a carb with 2 injectors) you will read if all good, like 10-13 psi at idle, and prob 14psi at full load, and must remain constant. That will tell u if FP is good.
Since ur problem is at hard brake, I´m more incline to Vacuum problems for the dying. Now with Electrical will be 100%, it must die, and then start again no problem, but for keep it from dying, I suggest yo check ALL vacuum lines, and PVC and all related component. This Hoses tend to solidify and not seal tight and crack. From the TBI front check the hose that goes to a sensor MAP. u might have a bad Map sensor, or a bad hose connection to it. But before this, there is and actuator in the TBI, kind of a idle regulator. This one goes in and out to keep idle soft and steady, it is prone to get a lot of sludge on it, and start working slow, you can take it out and clean it with a CARB cleaner spray, or buy a new one that is cheap.
Hope this helps...keep us posted !
Since ur problem is at hard brake, I´m more incline to Vacuum problems for the dying. Now with Electrical will be 100%, it must die, and then start again no problem, but for keep it from dying, I suggest yo check ALL vacuum lines, and PVC and all related component. This Hoses tend to solidify and not seal tight and crack. From the TBI front check the hose that goes to a sensor MAP. u might have a bad Map sensor, or a bad hose connection to it. But before this, there is and actuator in the TBI, kind of a idle regulator. This one goes in and out to keep idle soft and steady, it is prone to get a lot of sludge on it, and start working slow, you can take it out and clean it with a CARB cleaner spray, or buy a new one that is cheap.
Hope this helps...keep us posted !