Fuel pump change

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  #11  
Old 10-22-2007, 10:48 AM
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Default RE: Fuel pump change

Is it possible to buy a feul pump that only pushes 7-8 psi?
 
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:20 PM
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Default RE: Fuel pump change

ORIGINAL: Gordon24Camaro




how do you loosen and remove the ring around the sending unit, thats were I had my troubles?


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The lock ring has ears on it. Put a drift pin against the ear and hit it with a hammer to turn the ring counter-clockwise till the lock tabs clear the lock tabs on the tank. You're supposed to use a brass (or any non-metallic) pin so as not to cause a spark. I didn't have a brass one so I just used a steel pin and greased up the end as a safeguard.
 
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:34 PM
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Default RE: Fuel pump change

ORIGINAL: cjsuret

Is it possible to buy a feul pump that only pushes 7-8 psi?
Why do you need lower pressure, converting over to a carb setup? If that's what you're doing and you still have a functioning pump, you would be much better off (both time and cost wise) to keep what you have and install a fuel pressure regulator under the hood. Be sure to use a regulator that has a return line fitting for you to hook up to your existing return line back to the tank. Don't just use a simple singe in-single out style.
 
  #14  
Old 10-22-2007, 12:39 PM
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Default RE: Fuel pump change

There is a tab on the ring around the sending unit. You will need a large screwdriver to push the tab until it unlocks and then it will pop right off the sending unit. A little oil sprayed on the sending unit will help.
 
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:44 PM
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Default RE: Fuel pump change

I have one, and I am getting mixed opinions on where to put it. One guy tells me to put it after the carb. He says that by putting it there, I wont restrict the flow to the carb ( heavy accelerations). I also have been told to put it before the carb. My prob is I am converting a 305 TBI to a 350 with a Holly 750 DP. I have two lines coming into the engine compartment. I know which is which. What I don't know is who to believe. If I put it before, that will solve my problems. If I have to put it after in order to not lose any power I cant seem to figure out where the return line comes out of the carb. This may be a no brainer, but I am amature when it comes to fuel systems. I also have my own thred titled 305 to 350 where I am encountering another problem if you wouldn't mind taking a look.
 
  #16  
Old 10-22-2007, 02:07 PM
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Default RE: Fuel pump change

Put the regulator before the carb. How do you figure you are going to loose when a mechanical pump gives about 7 psi and it is before the carb. My brother has one line and a regulator before on his 59 Chevuy p/u and he has no loss of power. The mechanical fuel pump has a return line that goes back to the tank. There is no return on your carb.
 
  #17  
Old 10-22-2007, 03:43 PM
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Default RE: Fuel pump change

ORIGINAL: cjsuret

I have one, and I am getting mixed opinions on where to put it. One guy tells me to put it after the carb. He says that by putting it there, I wont restrict the flow to the carb ( heavy accelerations). I also have been told to put it before the carb. My prob is I am converting a 305 TBI to a 350 with a Holly 750 DP. I have two lines coming into the engine compartment. I know which is which. What I don't know is who to believe. If I put it before, that will solve my problems. If I have to put it after in order to not lose any power I cant seem to figure out where the return line comes out of the carb. This may be a no brainer, but I am amature when it comes to fuel systems. I also have my own thred titled 305 to 350 where I am encountering another problem if you wouldn't mind taking a look.
cjsuret, the fuel pump in your tank is putting out WAY too much pressure for a carb to handle. You need to step the pressure down BEFORE the carb, otherwise fuel will just blast past the needle & seat and you'll wind up with an engine that doesn't run and quite a dangerous flood on your hands. Putting it after the carb will do nothing beneficial and makes no sense. The regulator should be the "bypass" type. Summit carries them, search for the ones listed as a bypass style. It will have three ports, an inlet, an outlet to the carb, and a second outlet connecting your existing return line back to the tank. Also, a pressure gauge between the regulator and carb will be helpful in letting you know how much pressure you're putting out, not to mention it looks trick. And, you're not going to be suffering any performance at all, you're just putting the pressure down to where it should be as if you had a lower pressure pump designed for a carb.
 
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