How hard is it to change the water pump in either a 305 or 350 89 Iroc-z? I found one on craigslist and the pump is out and I'd like to just change it out and drive it home. What tools will I need? Thanks!

 

How long of a drive home is it? If the pump is leaking at a slow drip pace, you can drive it home like that, just bring some 50/50 mixed anti-freeze with you.
Changing the water pump is a simple job, luckily it still attaches the same as the pump on an "old-school" engine.
In addition to the pump, you'll need:
1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the belt tensioner & remove the belt
a ratchet set (for the pump to block bolts and pulley to pump bolts)
screwdriver or socket for the lower radiator hose
a scraper or razor blade to thoroughly clean the old gasket off the block
cleaner solvent/brake cleaner
silicone gasket goop
new anti-freeze
Now would also be a good time to change your lower and/or upper radiator hoses if they look old.

 

Well I haven't asked what she means by "failed" yet. If its only leaking slightly I'll just take a jug of water with me and refill it when the temp gauge moves. When I get home I can throw it in the garage and do it right and fill it with antifreeze. I don't really wanna waste antifreeze on the way home though, it isn't that cold here yet. It's 60 right now so it shouldn't be a problem. I'd really love to get it home without incident though. I'm trading off my ford taurus for it. Hopefully.

 

Generally when a pump fails, the coolant starts to leak past the inner bearing and comes out the weep hole on the bottom side of the pump body. It shouldn't be flowinglike a river unless it's been leaking for quite some time.

 

Well I hope it's nothing too serious. I'm trading this <a href="http://s171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/Intrepid781/?action=view&current=PICT0005.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/Intrepid781/PICT0005.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> for this <a href="http://s171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/Intrepid781/?action=view&current=1141f91473k53m13pf8bcc30e 6e0b469c14.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/Intrepid781/1141f91473k53m13pf8bcc30e6e0b469c14.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Seem like a good trade?

 

The pumps on a car with serpintine belt are super easy. No brackets ro remove. 9/16 socket and extension for the water pump. 5/16 or screwdriver for the hose clamp.If I remember right the pulley has 10mm or maybe 13mm bolt heads for the pulley.
Don't forget to seal the bolt threadsfor the pump to block. At least one of them will go through to a water jacket.

 

Thats an easy fix. If the car doesnt have a serp belt (IE has a seperate PS, AC and ALT belt) you have a little bit of removal to do. The process is very simple, pump is help on by 4 bolts. Watch out for the coolant, it gets everywhere.

Check the car over well.......nobody gets rid of a SBC just because the waterpump is bad.......

 

He said his girlfriend wants a family car and my Taurus is pretty family oriented. I'm gonna look it over before I give him mine though. He said he can drive it for about 25 minutes then it'll start to overheat gradually. Sound like a water pump issue to you?

 

I can't hear it from here but it could definatly be a cooling system problem
If it does not lose coolant could be a stuck T-stat. Should be a simple enough fix though. Hopefuly he did not really over heat it. If it still runs good though it most likely is fine.

 

I can hear it, get yer ears checked M.M.
If the pump isn't leaking, I would look at something else first.
Could be a stuck stat, a funky fan, or wacky wiring (for the cooling fan).
Check your coolant level too, and make sure it isn't "disappearing" without a trace, which could mean a bad head gasket or other major problems.