ALL OF THESE PEOPLE ASKING ABOUT V-8 SWAPS, HERE IS A LIST OF THINGS NEEDED.

8 Cylinder Engine (complete)
Alternator Bracket
AC Bracket
COMPUTER FROM V-8 F-BODY
Smog Pump Bracket
Power Steering Pump Bracket
AC hoses
Pulleys
Engine side brackets (from F-Body only!!)
& rubber motor mounts
Fan & Shroud
Starter
Water Pump
Power Steering Pump
V8 HEI Distributor
Plugs
Wires
Front Coil Springs


IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC TRANS
V8 Trans needed (bellhousing from 4 or
6 wont bolt to a V8)

Any other questions, please post in the proper sections of the forums!!

 

Today I recieved a PM from a member who recently did it, so heres his suggestions and additions



»¿
brobinson just sent you a private message at 8/21/2006 4:02:23 AM:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
l4/v6 to v8 swap parts list
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I've just gotten done swapping mine, so parts list is still fresh. Here's a few
suggestions.

New (or used) V-8 radiator. The upper coolant hose is mounted on opposite sides
from most L4/V6's.

The Power steering brackets as well as the pump.

Torque arm mount, whether it's just the tailshaft housing from a 700r4 equipped
3rd-gen or an aftermarket kit (mine's from B&M)

If the car was originally fuel injected and they're going carbed, they either
have to A)remove the electrical pump or B) use an AFPR to drop the fuel pressure
down. A mechanical pump won't pull through an electric very efficiently, if at
all.

The side motor mounts don't necessarily have to be from an f-body only.
Ideally, they should be the ones from the engine being swapped in.

All applicable wiring harnesses, or harness kits. Also, they'll need to make
doubly sure ALL wires are labeled and accounted for beforehand. I still haven't
figured out which ones are supposed to run my wipers.







So thank you very much. Anyone else wishing to contribute, please PM me with your suggestions

 

Another member messaged me today to add something-

zeus8807 just sent you a private message at 5/7/2007 9:05:07 PM:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
v6 swap to v8 third gen
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

hello, i wanted to add something to this post, in the post it says about how if
the vehicle was fuel injected u need to remove the old pump, this thou is not
true, the reason that the mech pumps usually wont pump well thru the old pump,
is that pump has a seal in it, this seal can be broken with compressed air being
sprayed down the line until u hear it bubble in the gas tank, itll also cause
the cause to come out the other line because of the pressure being sent back or
right back the feed line as soon as u let off the air. i just finished my 2.8
to 350 swap, and i tested it then after being told it by a old GM mechanic and
it work perfectly, its been tested daily over the last month and havent had a
fuel issue yet.

just thought it was worth posting in the thread for people to try, before
someone tried dropping the tank to take out the old pump or spending a lot of
money on a electric when a mech cost $20.

 

u can also just remove the pump and strainer and put some rubber fuel line on the end where the eletric pump was on. now instead of running all new fuel lines, u can use the factory lines and now it will be sucking instead of pushing.

 

This thread could be good sticky.... justa thought

 

It was. Dunno what happened.