Wet sanding and polishing... Use very fine grits and make sure to use the palm of your hand. Keep the panel nice and wet and then once youre done use a buffing compound and then use a polishing compound.. Its going to be alot of work, but that is going to work better than any of these "miracle products" that promise magic.

 

so just make a rag or somthing damp, let it soak a few min, then try and wash it off? im not all that concerned about small scratches since the paint looks like CRAP anyway, but the less the better. As long as they dont go to metal. The dots arent big, maybe the size of the end of a pin.

 

If it's on plastic, it'll eat the plastic that's why body shop prep is more surface safe.

 

Pretty much put that crap in a spray bottle and keep it moist... and then after a few times of it letting it set, wipe it off. Yes soaking a rag and keeping it on is the best approach to break it down. You can also use carb cleaner.

 

Laquer thinner will not eat the plastic and you have the paint protecting it. But it will eat the rubber seal in a spray bottle. I have worked in a bodyshop for 20+ years and had the use of many chemicals. I did not take the time to **** around with ****. I used what was more efficient.
Dont sand it! While you are sanding the lumps off tar you are also sanding the paint around it. As you take tar off you will be taking some top coat off. As you go through the tar, you will go through the top coat.
What ever you end up using, put some on a rag and wipe a small area. check to see how well the tar is melting and if the paint is being affected. I have come across chicken **** repaints like from miricale or macco or so and have had both thinner and prep solvent harm finishes.

 

I've used lacquer to clean plastics and it will burn the plastic pretty good.

 

Non painted plastics yes. Prep solvents will burn non painted plastics as well.
Oem and many aftermarket refinsihes are very resistant to chemicals.