alright, the list from the mechanic is the following:
both lower ball joint
center link
both front brake hoses
both front rotors (stong suggest new bearings)
struts

i already have the struts. i figure i might as well get the hardware too because the 20 year bolts and what not are prolly extremely rusted. it doesnt say anything about replacing the pads, or doing the rear brakes. however, i am going to clarify everything tomarrow, and find out what he means by center link. i will probably replace the rear rotors, pads, and hoses while im at it.

 

When you have gotten used to driving with worn out **** New is like an upgrade.

 

The bolts on your struts are huge that go through the spindle. They dont wear out.
The center link is the part that the inner tie rod ends hook to. Look at the crossmember from the front underside of the car and it is a bar that goes across right in front of it. Not to be confused with the sway bar that crosses under the radiator support.

 

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I believe that would be these, but you might wanna check, beacause you can never tell with some mechanics.

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/in...ROD&ProdID=758

 

Those are sway bar end links Fluffy
this is a center or sometimes called drag link
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

The center link is the thing that is connected to the inner tie rods, the idler arm, and the pitman arm. Therefore Mad Mike, you are correct. You might as well replace the bearings in the rotors. They ware the races inside the rotor and the bearing needles also wear down. If you install old bearings with new races, there is extra play and they are not worn together properly. Rule of thumb, NEVER mix new bearings with old races or vice a versa. If you do replace them make sure you pick up a seal for them too. Also get some good high quality bearing grease. Take the bearings outta the packaging and then put a glob of grease on your plam and work the grease into the bearing with the rollers going parallel with the motion. You don't want to roll the grease in there because it supposedly causes premature ware. Apply liberally. Get more cotter pins also and don't over tighten the castle nut on the spindle holding the whole thing on, and don't make it too loose either. Get it hand tight and then about a 1/4 turn past and line up the hole on the spindle with the castle nut so you can put the cotter pin back in.

 

Mmmm....Suspension repair 101. All of You guys are making great points, but I think the kid needs more $$$$ to do everything He needs to. Microkid, do some serious price comparisions. There is a huge variance of pricing in suspension parts. I've seen the exact same part sell for $15 at Autozone and $75 at carquest. Same brand, same part number. Be Careful how You spent the little money You have to work with.

 

Thanks, but I had no question in my mind that I was correct. And I am DAMN sure I am correct about the struts and springs not being one unit.

 

Ok... I was just confused cuz it's 1 unit on the 86 Trans Am. Take the bolts out of the strut mount. And then the two bolts at the spindle and then it came out as an assembly. Used a McPherson Strut compressor then took out the nut on the strut shaft and then took the mounting bearing off and then the spring and assembled in the reverse order.

 

Gotcha. I'm pretty new to the suspension thing, since I mostly do electrical and brake jobs. I'm learning suspension, but it's tough to do that when I've got no cars needing suspension work.