Thanks Fluffy. But with my knowledge of computers and internet I lost you at the work link.
And as for that pickle fork, I have never used on in my life. Just like said before, Smack the spindle where the stud for the balljoint goes through and it pops apart. And a friend to pry if there is no pressure from the spring to force it apart. But do watch that spring.

 

If it is a strut, it is held in by the strut bearing. So the spring shouldn't decompress on you unless you take the upper strunt center nut off. There are ways around using the right tools (I african american engineer **** all the time). What your budget can fit is what you can use. In addition to a pervious post,

http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint1.shtml

First of all, it's important to understand the chemical nature of brake fluid. DOT 3 brake fluids are mixtures of glycols and glycol ethers. DOT 4 contains borate esters in addition to what is contained in DOT 3. These brake fluids are somewhat similar to automotive anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) and are not, as Dr. Curve implies, a petroleum fluid. DOT 5 is silicone chemistry.

 

This is third gen stuff here and it is a strut. the spring will decompress if you disconnect any one of the following, upper strut from bearing, strut from spindle, spindle from control arm.

 

Yeah, petroleum in brakes would be fun, though. Nobody would ever go anywhere without pushing serious torque. Only reason I asked about the brake fluid is that I hadn't heard of a glycol base brake fluid with a boiling point over 500 degrees, and silicone would be a bad option for anything that'll go for more than a month or two without changing the fluid.

 

why is that, ive got a haynes books and ive gotten everything i needed done from that book.

 

It's a Mcpherson strut right? Coil sits on a mount on the strut with an insulator at the bottom, and then it's got another insulator at the top then the strut bearing. Then the strut bearing is held onto the strut shaft with a nut therefore compressing the spring and allowing you to take it out and put it in w/o having to compress the spring?


[IMG]local://upfiles/2777/854DA0C8C92F4279B47563A1490FE147.gif[/IMG]

 

To name a few. In my Haynes for my 94 Toyota truck, it says the motor is carbed. They stopped using the carbed motor sometime well before that vehicle was made. They told one of the guys I go to school with that his Grand Cherokee 4.0L Inline 6 takes 4.5 quarts of oil. If you've ever worked in the industry in an all inclusive shop, you'd know that EVERY jeep straight six takes SIX quarts. All of them, no exceptions. Anyone who can print such blatant mistakes obviously isn't putting as much though into their work as they ought to. I can see getting oil capacity wrong, but to say that a 22RE is carbeurated, that's just stupid. Especially when there's a picture of a fuel injected motor in 8 different places on that 2 page span. You may have gotten everything done, but that doesn't mean that you'll never have problems with it. Oh, and the 1986 Buick LeSabre came with a 2.8L V6, not a 3.1, which I never would have known without Chiltons. Or that big *** logo emblazoned on the top of the engine in bright red and silver. Either one works.

 

No. The coils do not go on the strut. The coils sit on the lower a-arm and in a pocket in the cross member. The fourth gens have that kind of strut your are thinking of.

 

I totaly agree with Fluffy. I have seen too may things wrong in haynes and big lack of information. I have one for my 97 Astro van I needed for wiring and it has "typical wiring" which tell me absolutly nothing. The diagrams are typical in the 40's but not now. It was a waste.

 

thanks for the help so far guys. i havent gotten the chance to look at all the links, or read it all. ill try and get some free time this weekend to look up parts from moog and carquest

oh, and like i said, im only going for replacement parts, i cant afford to upgrade anything at this time.