YOU NEED TO GET A LOCKING PLATE REMOVAL TOOL. IT LOOKS LIKE A TUNING FORK AND HAS A STUD THROUGH THE MIDLE THAT WILL THREAD ON TO THE COLUMN. A BOLT THEN PUSHES THE FORKS DOWN ON TO THE PLATE REVEALING A METAL C-CLIP ON THE SHAFT ON TOP OF THE PLATE. TAKE A COUPLE PICKS OR SMALL SCREW DRIVERS TO EXPAND THE CLIP AND PULL IT TOWARDS YOU ON THE SHAFT. AFTER REMOVING THE CLIP RELEASE THE TOOL AND THE PLATE WILL SLIDE OFF THE END OF THE SHAFT. THAT GREEN PLASTIC HORN CONDUCTOR WILL SLIDE OFF AS WELL. NEXT YOU'LL NEED A PHILLIPS SCREW DRIVER TO TAKE OFF THE TURNSIGNAL ARM ATACHMENT LEVER AND THE 3 SCREWS THAT HOLD THE TURNSIGAL SWITCH TO THE COLUMN. ALSO USE A SMALL PHILLIPS TO TAKE OFF THE HAZARD SWITCH BUTTON ON THE RIGHT LOWER OF COLUMN. AFTER REMOVING SCREWS THE T/S SWICTH WILL BE ABLE TO BE PULLED OUT OVER SHAFT W/ WIRES STILL ATTACHED. ON THE RIGHT SIDE NEAR THE TUMBLER THERE'S A PLASTIC INSERT THAT COVERS THE BOLT FOR THE KEY & TUMBLER. PULL THE INSERT OUT TO REVEAL A TORQUES BIT BOLT (PROBABLY A SIZE 15 OR 20). REMOVE THE BOLT AND THE TUMBLER SHOULD PULL RIGHT OUT. REVERSE PROCEDURE TO REINSTALL.

 

GO TO SNAPON.COM AND SEARCH PART # CG95A TO SEE A PICTURE OF THE LOCK PLATE DEPPRESOR.

 

I'm gonna go by the Auto House and pick up the kit, said it should be 12 bucks.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.. I'll be working on it this weekend and be sure to update.

 

I bought the tool this morning and removed the plate, I also bought a new switch to replace mine if it was just that.
I took the plate off and got to the switch, I installed the new switch and it moved freely. I put every thing back and the car cranked fine.
I had place a order for another part that I thought I might need while at the parts house. I decided to drive the car there and cancel it. On the way I noticed that the ALT gauge was not putting out and my turn signals were not flashing but just staying on.
When I got in my car to leave the parts house.. my car was dead.. would not turn over. I got a jump and made my way home. Once I shut the car off it would not crank up. I tested my bat and it was testing at 11.34.. to low to turn over the car. I've got the Bat on charge now and waiting to trouble shoot my problem.

The only thing I've done is gone in the steering column and changed the switch out. Would anything that I have done effected my current problems ?

 

How do you mean the turn signals are acting funny?

 

I edited the post and explained it better....
Thanks for asking.. you have [and all the others] been a big help.

 

Are you sure everything went back together exactly as it was when you started? The turn signal mechanism is kinda tricky to reassemble. I had the same problem when I replaced mine. As for the alternator, check it with a DVOM while the car is running. You SHOULD get a reading of at least 13.5V dc while the car is running. If not, you should check the fuse on the alt, as well as the wiring. I'm not certain if it's the same on yours, since I don't have a wiring diagram for the car on hand, but there was a fuse labled "fan" in the cabin fuse box that runs to the alternator circuit. Not sure why it's labled fan, but that's what it is. If there's no bad wiring, and the fuse is good, you've probably got a bad alternator.

 

I've chnged out Alts and checked my Bat on both they are both not putting out and checked changed Bat incase of the rare chance my Bat shorted out ... I'm thinking something I did in the column is effecting it.. Tomorrow I will take the column apart again and see what I find.

 

There shouldn't be any wiring to the charging system in the collumn, as far as I can remember. If you have a wiring diagram of the charging system, and are able to read it, you'd do well to check that all the wires are conducting well. There should be very little voltage drop accross any of the wires. First thing I would do is check voltage at the alternator case to the ground terminal at the battery. If you get anything more than a few millivolts, there's a faulty ground. Then check the rest of the wiring working back from the alternator to the main power cable. If none of that does any good, you should pull the alt and have it bench tested, so you can see if it's your alternator, or something else in the car you could be missing. As for the wiring diagram, I can pick one up for you if you don't have it, but I won't be able to post it here untill Monday night.