So here it goes, my project thread (2nd gen)
#101
Those two brackets that are laying on the floor mount to the inside spring perches to attach the swaybar to the axle. Looks like you've got everything needed to mount them up. Look at my left spring perch and you'll see the bushing and bracket on the spring plate:
#102
They don't fit. The spacing on the bolt holes is too narrow. I been looking aroung the nasty site and think there is a u boly that goes over the axle and has a perch that faces down to mount the brackets on the floor. I'm calling in the morning and asking. I was gonna just elongate the holes until it fit. But I'll just wait till tomorrow.
#103
Interesting? They usually use slotted brackets on the aftermarket systems to fit numerous U bolt widths. Let us know what they say, I'd like to know how they address it.
#106
Well I finally did some work today but forgot my camera. I blasted and painted my spindals and put the front together, finally! The rotors are glazed in a way that just ain't right so Im debating blasting them or having them turned. I plan on upgrading the brakes next tax season so I don't wanna replace them. I might have this thing sitting on all fours for the first time in over 20 years. Anyone have a good source for prebent stainless brake lines?
#107
I sure don't know where to tell you to go for stainless hard lines. I usually head over to my local NAPA and just buy the generic straight lines in the length I need and bend them with my tubing bender. I usually get pretty close, but occasionally I end up with slightly longer line and have to be creative in terminating them.
In order to get the right length I use iron tie wire and wrap it around my starting point, then bend it all around in the shape I need. Once that's done I pull it off and straighten it out. Then measure it to determine total length. My little Harbor Freight tubing bender makes quick work of bending it, and I can usually do it under the car, or make another pattern from the tie wire and do it off that pattern.
In order to get the right length I use iron tie wire and wrap it around my starting point, then bend it all around in the shape I need. Once that's done I pull it off and straighten it out. Then measure it to determine total length. My little Harbor Freight tubing bender makes quick work of bending it, and I can usually do it under the car, or make another pattern from the tie wire and do it off that pattern.
#108
I have a good bender. We used to bend alot of tube at my last job, But like you said sometimes you get in that spot were its just too long. I could buy a flairing tool, but having never done it I don't think my brakes are the place to learn. I read its a pain to flair ss anyhow.
#110
I too have a flaring tool, but I've been unlucky flaring steel tube. Not sure I'd ever try to flare my brake lines, but I've flared lots of copper line.