I plan on getting mine dead center similar to the pic by building a offset bracket for the stick. I cant figure out why this guy decided to keep the stick in the front half of the hole. In a pic showing the boot he made the rear section is covered by a piece covered with Naugahyde. I would have just made a boot the shape of the hole.

 

Looking at the offset bar he used to get it back a little, maybe he just didn't want to go too long on the bar, and create a longer shift throw, or have the bar rise up too high on shifts? Never really know if the OP didn't mention why he chose to stop short of center on the boot.

 

I was thinking that the offset would be fine. A boot that goes to the edges of the hole would allow for the stick not being centered. It would hide it all at least. Any how may be something like that with a 3" offset shifter is where my brain is headed.

I have a bunch of things that need to get done in order before I start on the trans mods though. Like getting my garage up to a decent temp. It was -14* this morning with a steady 25-30mph wind coming off Lake Michigan. Crazy cold for this part of the world.

 

yeah bro its bitterly cold here too -13 and was -41 at the bridge...bro u lucky dog to have that t56 thats my dream someday too..cant wait to see how your install goes,im sure you will do an awesome job as always...

 

Damon did you ever sell your 4speed? I thought I saw them up on another site. Just curious what you were able to get for them because I want to go 5speed at some point and my st10 will have to help fund the swap.

 

Hi Damon, Just a question regarding the wheels.
What width is your rim? Would it be possible to post some pictures of your rear wheel and tyre and how it sits in the fender so I can see how it sits?
Thanks Claudio

 

Do I have any pics of the wheels? Ha! I took pics for the first two years I had them every time I made real progress. I did a ton of research before ordering as well as measuring the crap out of my car. I used a "T" square to measure from the hub to the lip and springs. Then I read and read about the section width of each tire to know exactly how much "chub" the tire would have when on the rim. I want to say there is 10mm or so to the leaf spring. The tire is even with the fender lip. I just bought an Eastwood fender roller to see if I can roll the lips to get the tires tucked into the wheel well. The wheel is 17x11" with 5.75" BS. the tire is a 315/35ZR17 Nitto NT555. Just know that some tires are different even though the size is the same. Goodyear Eagles are over and inch wider. Good luck, I have more pics of my rims and tires than any other part of the car, except the engine.



This pic is the rear with no weight on the chassis at all. The springs still havent settled but after I modify the front spring perch it will drop another 1" or so. If it still isnt where I want I'll add a block to the spring pack. I will someday go to coil overs to adjust the height where I want, but for now I just want the top of the tire to just hide behind the lip.






Obviously this is whithout a tire but it gives a great idea of how close I cut it with the stock spring location. This is where the DSE kit comes in handy. The springs are not parallel. The rear is farther apart. The mini tubs are worthless without the spring relocation kit. All the wheel well in the world wont move the spring out of the way. The have an offset rear shackle and the front perch moves in an inch or so. The frame rail gets notched and boxed back in so the spring can tuck into the notch.




This is the inside top near the area the DSE kit cuts out. Seeing this reminds me I have to reshape the metal there. Its too close, too wavy and just plain ugly this way. Finally here is the wheel lip from the inside looking up. The fingerprints are from me hanging on to the lip while sanding.

 

I had everything up for $1800. That was with two bellhousings, z-bar set up, a new aluminum and used steel flywheels, a Hurst Comp Plus w/ two sticks. I cant remember what else. I got hassled for the word feeler but no bites. A couple guys wanted me to piece it out but no one wanted the trans. I too will need to sell off this stuff in order to fund the rest of the swap. I need a $400 flywheel and the clutch comes in at about $550. No kidding, I was shocked. But the clutch will hold close to 800 ft lbs. I could use less but the lesser one is not much cheaper so why not? Room to grow and a light pedal to boot.

 

Thank you so much Damon for the information. This will help me a lot and makes the thing simpler for me to understand....Nice wheels and tyre selection. Are the nitto soft? I mean for drag or street?

 

They are a bit soft but I dont think they will hook for crap. They are a street performance tire. More for cornering with a stiff side wall. Nitto makes a N555DR that is a drag radial. But if I go drag racing I'l more than likely bolt on my 15" wheels with a real set of ET Streets. There is no point in trying to get a short tire to hook. 15's fit over my brakes and a the tires will be a true wrinkle wall design, not a compromise.