The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build
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1. The neutral safety wires, 2 purple wires (one with a white stripe) in a connector. I'm trying to get the micro switch on the shifter hooked up properly and can't figure out which of these purple wires is the power side? I thought it was the one with the white stripe but now think it's the solid purple one, can anyone help with this? This is keeping me from getting the console put back in and shifter finished.
2. Red wire from the starter to the bulkhead connector - I am installing a distribution block somewhere on the firewall to have access to power and to clean up some of these old raggedy wires. What I'm wondering is can I just run the wire to the bulkhead from the distribution block instead of the starter? I will run a piece of 8g from the starter to the distribution block. Still going to run the purple wire to the starter. In the pic, the wires that have the clamp on them used to have the wires going to the alternator in there also but I removed those a while back when I went to a 1 wire alt.
3. The other red wire in the pic with the big connector on it connects the blower feed from the blower relay and I'd like to just run the wire from the blower relay to the distribution block also since it'll be mounted right above it. This would get rid of those two wires that are in pretty rough shape and clean things up. I can't see why this wouldn't work but wanted to check and make sure first.
Let's hope I get this straight!
1-The line or load side wont matter, as a switch simply breaks the circuit, so either side will break the circuit. But if you want to easily figure out which is hot, just use a test light and poke the insulation to see which side turns the light on.
2-Yes, you can double up the wires on the distribution block if it has a bolt on terminal. So bring the wire to the block with a ring terminal, and then stack the other ring terminal on it to go on to the bulkhead connector. I personally wouldn't want a distribution block with no fusing ahead of the fuse block, as it's not safe. I'd want it to be a fused distribution block, and everything off it would then be fused. I'd also prefer it to be after the ignition switch, so it wasn't hot until the key came on. So I'd do the splice at a relay, and then feed a fuse block off that relay's contacts.
3-Same thing here. I'd still rather have it fused and controlled by the ignition switch.
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Thanks for the info Vall, appreciate it sir. I am trying to get things ready so I can get the battery hooked up. Hard to use a test light when there's no power to anything right now lol!
I am a bit confused (big surprise) about the distribution block making things hot before the ignition switch. Don't understand why that would happen when the wires would be basically still hooked to the starter B+ terminal but just off of it with a dist. block? Instead of hooking the wires to the terminal on the starter and going to the block would make them hot all the time and not key on power? I thought I was basically just relocating the B+ terminal to clean up the wiring? This is a fused block btw sir.
I am a bit confused (big surprise) about the distribution block making things hot before the ignition switch. Don't understand why that would happen when the wires would be basically still hooked to the starter B+ terminal but just off of it with a dist. block? Instead of hooking the wires to the terminal on the starter and going to the block would make them hot all the time and not key on power? I thought I was basically just relocating the B+ terminal to clean up the wiring? This is a fused block btw sir.
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I guess I'm confused by what you're referring to as the starter B+ terminal. That's the battery terminal to me, as the other two terminals are the "S" and "R" terminals, so once the battery is hooked up, the B+ terminal will always be hot, thus everything hooked to it would be hot also.
If you're using a different terminal, then I'm not sure it will even hold the load of a distribution, or fuse block.
If you're using a different terminal, then I'm not sure it will even hold the load of a distribution, or fuse block.
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No I am talking about the battery hookup terminal. That's where this red wire hooks up anyway so I guess it was always hot. Forgive the ignorance here again but the red wire in question that comes from starter to bulkhead connector, does that power the fuse panel? I was thinking that's what the purple wire does. The other wire that connects to the blower resistor must always be hot then also since that's connected to the same red wire that goes to the starter. Am I mistaken about the red wire getting connected to the battery terminal on the starter? That's where I took it off from. I want to use this distribution block as I need power to feed the ignition box in that same area. I am probably over thinking this whole deal but of course, want to make sure so there's no problems. It's going to be a busy week, but this Camaro is getting fired before next weekend.
Question about the ignition box wiring. I'm assuming that the mag. pickup wires (purple/green) won't be used and I would be using the white wire? Just not sure where to hook that wire up? My distributor has a red, yellow and black wire coming off it (aftermarket HEI). I know where everything else goes, just not the white wire or the mag pickup.
Question about the ignition box wiring. I'm assuming that the mag. pickup wires (purple/green) won't be used and I would be using the white wire? Just not sure where to hook that wire up? My distributor has a red, yellow and black wire coming off it (aftermarket HEI). I know where everything else goes, just not the white wire or the mag pickup.
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No I am talking about the battery hookup terminal. That's where this red wire hooks up anyway so I guess it was always hot. Forgive the ignorance here again but the red wire in question that comes from starter to bulkhead connector, does that power the fuse panel? I was thinking that's what the purple wire does. The other wire that connects to the blower resistor must always be hot then also since that's connected to the same red wire that goes to the starter. Am I mistaken about the red wire getting connected to the battery terminal on the starter? That's where I took it off from. I want to use this distribution block as I need power to feed the ignition box in that same area. I am probably over thinking this whole deal but of course, want to make sure so there's no problems. It's going to be a busy week, but this Camaro is getting fired before next weekend.
Question about the ignition box wiring. I'm assuming that the mag. pickup wires (purple/green) won't be used and I would be using the white wire? Just not sure where to hook that wire up? My distributor has a red, yellow and black wire coming off it (aftermarket HEI). I know where everything else goes, just not the white wire or the mag pickup.
Question about the ignition box wiring. I'm assuming that the mag. pickup wires (purple/green) won't be used and I would be using the white wire? Just not sure where to hook that wire up? My distributor has a red, yellow and black wire coming off it (aftermarket HEI). I know where everything else goes, just not the white wire or the mag pickup.
As for the ignition box; I'd want that to turn off, and also not be sharing a power source with anything else! Most require a stand alone circuit (like MSD, etc) and don't do well if anything else on the same feed pulls any current away from them. I have mine direct off the battery, but I use a battery disconnect switch after the battery, so whenever I park the battery is shut off. Only things ahead of the battery are my alarm system, and constant hot to keep the radio channels programmed.
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Thanks for the help Vall, I was overthinking it for sure. I get what you're saying about a separate source for the ignition box, but like you said, anything off the battery is hot all the time right? The ignition box has 1 larger wire (battery feed) which says right in the installation instrux direct to battery OR a battery junction such as starter. Then there is the 1 smaller key-on power to turn it off. I'm running the key on wire to a separate switch inside to turn it on and off. I do have a 60 amp circuit breaker that I could use, but everything that'll be connected to the dist. block is already fused, except for the wire to the bulkhead connector, that has a fusible link. Again, thank you sir.
Can you help me out with where to connect the white wire on the 6AL? Instrux say breaker point, amplifier output or yellow wire of a MSD timing accessory. My distributor is not MSD and has 3 wires red/yellow/black. Don't know what to use?!
Can you help me out with where to connect the white wire on the 6AL? Instrux say breaker point, amplifier output or yellow wire of a MSD timing accessory. My distributor is not MSD and has 3 wires red/yellow/black. Don't know what to use?!
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Yes, MSD and others say the two heavy red/black wires are constant hot direct to the battery, and that's what I have, but just after my battery disconnect switch. I know it's fine to be constant hot, but I just like the idea of no power to the MSD box when it's sitting in the garage during the winter months.
As for the other smaller power wire that is energized when the ignition switch is turned on. I'd power it from a fuse that only becomes hot when the key is turned on. The fuse on your panel labeled "ignition" will be fine, as it's just a trigger on the MSD box, and the load is very small.
As for the other smaller power wire that is energized when the ignition switch is turned on. I'd power it from a fuse that only becomes hot when the key is turned on. The fuse on your panel labeled "ignition" will be fine, as it's just a trigger on the MSD box, and the load is very small.
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Oops! Misread the 2nd part of your question! I'd need to know more about your distributor to decide what wire goes where. As you mentioned, the white wire goes to points, but some single wire electronic distributors also use the white to feed them. My Mallory Unilite, and Pertronix distributor both use the white, as they are not Hall Effect type electronics. Your 3 wire distributor will most likely abandon the white lead, and use the 2 prong connector that has (I believe) a purple or violet, and brown wire in it?
If you don't have the instructions with your distributor to see what the 3 wires are, then a brand and model will help look up what they are. I'd guess two wires are the pick up, and one is a ground. Also, which MSD box are you using?
If you don't have the instructions with your distributor to see what the 3 wires are, then a brand and model will help look up what they are. I'd guess two wires are the pick up, and one is a ground. Also, which MSD box are you using?
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To be perfectly honest, I don't know who the manufacturer of this distributor is, most likely Procomp. It was the very first part I bought for this engine build back in early 2012, clear cap and all! Here's a link to one exactly like mine. The three wires that come off the distributor are the coil - ground and coil + (yellow/black/red) and in the MSD troubleshooting it says to hook the white wire on the 6AL to the original coil - wire. But if I need to use the magnetic pickup wires, the connector would not fit into the connector on the distributor. Guess I could cut that connector off. Yes, there is also a small black wire for the hall effect (which I have no idea what that is.)
Grounds - Wondering if I can go from the battery to one of the mounting bolts on the motor mount (solid) to block? That sort of makes it a block/frame mounting point. Can't really find another place on the block to mount the ground from the battery. I plan on going from the same spot to the frame also but wanted to check if that would still work for the "block" grounding point? I also already have a ground strap from the back of the block to the firewall.
PC SBC BBC Small Big Block Chevy Hei Distributor Extreme 65K Coil Clear Cap | eBay
Grounds - Wondering if I can go from the battery to one of the mounting bolts on the motor mount (solid) to block? That sort of makes it a block/frame mounting point. Can't really find another place on the block to mount the ground from the battery. I plan on going from the same spot to the frame also but wanted to check if that would still work for the "block" grounding point? I also already have a ground strap from the back of the block to the firewall.
PC SBC BBC Small Big Block Chevy Hei Distributor Extreme 65K Coil Clear Cap | eBay
Last edited by 78 on my plate; Aug 4, 2014 at 09:26 PM.
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Here's a diagram of the wiring for a Hall Effects distributor:
Any two prong plug can replace the MSD plug, or use 1/4" spade connectors. Once you establish the ground, the other two wires shouldn't be polarity sensitive, since MSD doesn't show them as positive or negative. This diagram is for a Mallory, but should be the same for the Pro Comp.
I remember now that you mentioned buying a Pro Comp distributor long ago.
Hall ef·fect
noun
Physics
noun: Hall effect; plural noun: Hall effects
the production of a potential difference across an electrical conductor when a magnetic field is applied in a direction perpendicular to that of the flow of current.
Any two prong plug can replace the MSD plug, or use 1/4" spade connectors. Once you establish the ground, the other two wires shouldn't be polarity sensitive, since MSD doesn't show them as positive or negative. This diagram is for a Mallory, but should be the same for the Pro Comp.
I remember now that you mentioned buying a Pro Comp distributor long ago.
Hall ef·fect
noun
Physics
noun: Hall effect; plural noun: Hall effects
the production of a potential difference across an electrical conductor when a magnetic field is applied in a direction perpendicular to that of the flow of current.
Last edited by 1971BB427; Aug 5, 2014 at 09:18 AM.