Sorry wasnt laughin at you. Its hard to repaint something, expensive too! My doors were good to go until I opend one with the fender on and scraped it to hell. Its just never ending with these fenders. I havent touched the car in over a week do to this. Well that and other things but I wont go into it here.

I will qoute Jim Carrey here. Be... Strhooong...

 

No apologies necessary Damon, I didn't mean it like that sir. I wasn't worried about having to repaint the thing, if you could've seen it you'd understand more I think. Wasn't a little dirt, it was like pouring glitter on glue only the real glitter (metallic) was not to be seen afterward. Anyway, the C.S. is done, painted and already on the Camaro so I've already put it in the past.


Even though I haven't started trying to put the fenders back on yet, I'm not excited about the process and the carnage that can come with the installation. My doors are still on the Camaro, should I take them off first? I need to get the new pin/bushing kits done anyway on the hinges. One good thing about these fenders though, not too worried about the exterior paint getting scratched on install, yet. This'll be good practice trying to get them on and lined up for when they come back off for body work and paint. I'm bummed that I'll probably have to enlist help to get them on there though.

 

Looks great! I'd put the box inside the car. Just extend the wiring to reach the passenger compartment, and mount it behind the glove box where it's out of sight. It will last a lot longer away from the engine heat.

 

Take your time on the fenders, and when you open the doors the first time to check clearances, be sure to mask the edge of the doors and fenders! Then open just enough to unlatch, and watch the front gap closely to see if the tape hits. You can stop and adjust things if it does, and not damage the paint.
Also, if your car will be coming apart later for complete paint; be sure to drill alignment holes in all the fender and door mounting points! A 1/8" hole in each bracket or hinge will give you something to slip a nail into when you're reassembling after paint, and make things line up quickly.

 

I definitely want the ignition box inside the car as there's not enough room for it in the traditional spot above the heater box on the firewall. The ac delete box must be a bit bigger than the others since it doesn't fit there. Don't want stuff bolted to the inner fenders either and that doesn't leave me many other options in the engine bay. I always heard not to mount the box in the glove box and realize you said "behind" the glove box. I'd like to be able to get at it so as to be able to adjust the rev limiter settings on it. Was thinking under the console glove box but don't think it'll fit in there either. Again, options don't leave me much choice but not quite ready to find a spot for it just yet.


Not sure where you're suggesting the alignment holes on the fender/door brackets Vall, but sounds like a good idea. Is it easier to have the inner fenders installed first, then the fenders? I took one of the fenders off with the inner still attached. I plan on putting the inners on first, then getting the car running before putting the rest of the front end back on. Need a place to set the battery.


I'm in between Dr. appt's today (my back didn't appreciate all the grinding) but hope to get that fuel regulator bracket fab'd this evening so the rest of the fuel plumbing can get done too. I'd like to post a couple pics of that finished up tonight.

 

I put my ignition box under the dash behind the glove box. For the rev limiter, instead of the chip, I have the remote mount adjustable (****) rev limiter module.

 

Not quite finished up but at least I'm close. Only had an hour or so this evening after a crazy day. Need to pick up some other/better small mounting hardware in the morning and I can get the regulator mounted to the bracket I made. I do have a question or two about this though. Will there be any issue with how short the hose is going to be from the pump to the regulator? I'm going to have to run the filter in between the pump and regulator also. I've learned that hose barb fittings will NOT fit over AN-6 hose! I'll have to use a piece of this 3/8" hose for the pump to reg. part so I can get the filter inline there. The good fittings that I have are for AN6 and they are for the reg. to carb. Sure wish I would've know this a long time ago, it's caused an issue or two already coming off the rear filter too. I'll have to use a couple of those magna clamps on the 3/8" hose with the filter if that'll be ok? Don't know how else I could accomplish this really. Already have several extra good fittings as a result of this. Here's a couple pics (not good ones either the sun was shining ridiculous right on everything this evening) to show where I'm mounting the regulator. We're only talkin' inches between that and the pump.

 

Everything I see looks OK. I dont like the 90* into a 90* on the pump but that wont stop it from running. I am totally lost as to what your saying on the filter though. Maybe lay it out on the bench so we can see. The barb on the hose end in the regulator doesnt look far enough in the hose btw.

That binocular scoop is growing on me! Your well on your way to pro car show! LOL I only make the joke because we took the Dodge down to Grand Haven last night for a show. I told my buddy two in two weeks, we must be going pro! Thought we would have the only twin turbo car but a guy I grew up with came in with a Falcon that was art! Twins on a SBF, he had billet turbos and it pretty much crapped on our parade. LOL

Good luck, your getting there. I havent had a spare second to think about the car.

 

The only restriction on how short the hose is will be the bends. Don't want it bent so tight as to close it off. A 90 degree or 45 degree fitting will get the hose to have less bend if need be.
Your engine compartment looks very nice! I hope you have good luck keeping it that way with the gilmer belt setup! I just spent the day yesterday removing mine on the BBC in my Falcon. After going through two belts in a year, and having all the rubber belt dust cover the entire engine with black soot, I gave up. The cogs on the belt and the pulleys just seem to never wear in and stop making a mess. I went back to a V belt, and can finally keep my engine clean without having to wipe it down after every drive!

 

I sort of thought what I was trying to convey would be confusing about this. While I understand and agree with you about the fittings going into the pump, it's not a 90 into a 90. I never did post a pic showing the braided line I ran from the tank up to the pump and how it fell about an inch short of the length needed to run that fitting into the pump. I tried everything to get the extra length and that's where I ended up. I got that little 45* fitting (so they called it but looks more like a 30* angle to me) for the pump so I could connect the braided line up. It was either that or start over on the braided line and that was not going to happen, at least not now.


I have to apologize for not specifying in the pics that everything was just kind of "set" there for pic purposes. The piece of 3/8" hose coming off the regulator was just stuck on there far enough to hold it, and it wasn't cut to length yet. I knew right off the get-go that I didn't want to make bends in the hose to connect the pump and regulator together. I am going to HAVE to run the filter inline between the pump and reg. as that's where I'm using the small piece of 3/8" hose and using the hose barbs off the pump and into the regulator. I bought all AN6 braided hose to use for the fuel system and realized that hose barbs on the filter don't fit into AN6. Now, I'm using the 3' piece of 3/8" braided from a carb plumbing kit in order to get another filter inline somewhere before the carb. So, one way or the other, I'll have to use 2 barb fittings to get this filter installed, either from pump - regulator or between regulator and carb feed line. I already have the AN6 hose made up to go from the reg. to the carb with the fittings installed so the filter is going down where only a small piece of 3/8" hose will need to be used. What's good about that though is that will make the length a bit longer as to not have bends or kinks in it to connect the two together. I'll get some better pics of it today, when it's done.


Appreciate the nice comments very much also about the engine/bay!!!