If the sfc's weren't on there it would've never been an issue. Even if I had straight tubing it would've still been a headache with those. Basically had to almost hook shape it to get it over and through the spot above the sfc. I understand completely what you're saying about doing your own brake lines. I myself would rather have them come pre-bent and have them installed in minutes. I actually did have the line installed in minutes, until I saw what it was doing by the sfc. All the other pre-bent lines that I bought (once I got the correct lines for my year) went in perfectly and took less than 10 minutes to have them in. Just preference of course. Think I'm just going to re-use the factory straps as they're all still good, just a bit dirty/rusty. I like having the line back and mounted in the exact same locations as they were originally. I have the insulated straps for the new fuel line already but will put them in the original locations also. Just trying to get the brakes all finished up so I can move on and not have to go back and mess with MORE things after the rest of the weight is put on the chassis. Too many other nuts/bolts to go back and tighten as it is now. The pedal assembly is completely finished thankfully. Doing the one man brake line bleeding is fine, but quite time consuming! I'll get it though, I'm way sore today from yesterdays work so think I'll rest for the remainder of today. It's ridiculously cold out there anyway! And to think I complained about last winter....

I didn't know if there was a way to tip the tank over and blow whatever is still in there out or not. I won't even attempt to put something else inside that tank with my luck. I do have a can of seafoam on the shelf but think I'll either leave it alone or try the air method anyway. I have a canister type filter for back by the tank and will put another one inline after the pump also. I doubt there's a lot of rust, just whatever fell off when I was removing the old sending unit. The tank itself was fairly new.

 

I use my Mity-Vac to bleed my brake lines. Works very well, and even faster than having two people. Just hook up the hose to the bleeder, pump up the vacuum, open slightly until the vacuum drops to zero, and repeat until there's about an inch of fluid in the vacuum container. Move to each wheel and repeat.

 

You're a lucky man Vall. I had that same thing in my hands 2 days ago. It's another one of those "use it once, or twice if I'm lucky/unlucky" tools that I refuse to buy if there's another way of getting the job done. There's another way to get the job done so back on the shelf it went. I just got the plain 'ol brake bleeding kit with the cup, hose and rubber fittings. It may not be an enjoyable process to get these lines bled but at least it's not something that's stressing me out and causing me to cuss. The neighbors will be most pleased about that!

 

With 4 vehicles around the house, plus always helping one friend or another; the vac system gets well used! This is actually my 2nd one, as I wore out one already over the years of using it. I bought the cheaper HF model to replace my 1st one when it went bad. Got home and gave it one squeeze and it broke! After another 12 mile drive back to HF, I bought the Mity Vac, but I was so irritated by the quality and drive time that the clerk gave me the Mity Vac for the HF club price. So it only cost me another $5 over the cheap pump.

 

What works like a charm is gravity feeding the lines. Keep the cover off the master cylinder, and crack open one bleeder at a time, starting with the farthest to the nearest just like you would normally bleed the lines. The brake fluid will start to run out of the bleeder, then close that one and move to the next. Your "pump & bleed" procedure to get the final air out will then be reduced to a minimum.

 

Well, I might've spoke too soon about not stressing and/or cussing. Think I might have a problem with the pushrod in the booster not making good contact with the mc piston. Of course, this gets realized after everything is tightened down and fluid is put in the mc! I checked, measured and verified BEFORE mounting everything so I'm not sure exactly what's going on just yet. When I push the pedal down, nothing happens in the mc. No bubbles, no fluid movement nothing. Not sure what to even think about that. Guess I'll have to start by taking the mc/prop valve off and going from there, now that it's full of fluid. Hopefully I can get it figured out without making too much of a mess. Times like this is when I need an extra body out there with me. Chuck, I thought about just opening the bleeders and letting gravity work for a while also. Already have the wrench on the pass side rear bleeder. That should've been the next step actually but I'm not that lucky. Appreciate the tip sir. Vall, I watched a video on youtube of a guy using the HF version that you spoke of. When I saw how many times he had to open/close the bleeder valve and pump up that thing, I was glad I didn't get one. I'm sure the Mity-vac is better.

 

I believe the pushrod issue was fine afterall. The reason I say this is now when I push the pedal, fluid starts to leak out of the 2 lines from prop valve into the mc. Not leaking at the threads but in the middle of the fitting where the line goes through it. I've tried loosening and retightening many times. Also have one of the plug fittings on the other side of the mc that will not stop leaking either. Only starts to leak when I push the pedal down. Frustrating as hell! Not sure what else to try and do? I don't want to get crazy with the tightening but they sure aren't loose!

 

It's not uncommon to have flare tubing ends not seal perfectly, especially if they are new. Even old fittings that are pushed around or tweaked a little can not seat perfectly sometimes. Just remove the fitting and double check the tubing is coming straight into the device, then turn it down again. If you wiggle it a little as the fitting is tightened, it will aid in seating them better. And they also need to be pretty darn tight! There's lots of pressure there, and I've had to go back more than once to re-tighten fittings because of a small leak that kept me from bleeding the system. Had some new made in China wheel cylinders that I thought I'd never get 100% sealed!

 

Only thing I can think of is that there is too much tension on the lines going into the mc. The mounting bracket for the prop valve is not adjustable. The lines fit into the mc ok but had to be somewhat pushed into position. I believe what might be happening is the tension is pulling the flare off center a little. I might need to add a washer/spacer to the mounting stud on the booster between the master and the prop valve. That might bring the valve up into a better position and relieve the tension on it. I loosened the nut on the booster mounting stud, both ends of the prop valve/mc lines and the mounting screw for the prop valve bracket to try and get them centered well. Still didn't stop the leak. No fluid leaks out just sitting there, only when I push the brake pedal down. I can immediately see the fluid bubbling and spraying out of the middle of the fitting where the line is. The plug fittings on the other side of the mc are leaking as well. Could I use tape on those? My fear is that I'll overtighten and crack the mc! I've removed them, cleaned threads with a brass bristle brush (they're brand new anyway) and retightened them many many times now. I thought the chrome might be causing problems with sealing. It got to the point where it was absurd that they were still leaking and I had to stop before the rage took over. Pretty much a wasted day today, don't like those.

 

I'd remove the prop valve from it's mounting point, and tighten all the lines. Then it can be pushed or pulled into place after the lines are all allowed to seat without tension. Try bleeding the system before re-mounting the prop valve, just to ensure you've got the leak stopped.