77 - Do you have a date that you are aiming for to complete your project? Well i guess complete isnt the word, more like do you have a date that you are hoping to be driiving your car by?

Im so far and gone setting timelines as my dad and i have been doing that for 14 years and never came close.

 

No I don't have a thread on my car, I don't think there would be enough space for my build up. I had the car for over 20 years and the reason it took so long was due to a serious medical condition with our son that happened 13 years ago.

But if you want, here is my email address: broland@thermalsolutions.com
and if you want, drop me a line and I'll give you any and all details on the car.

I still think you'll be surprised.....

 

Around here the NHRA techs will hold your cage to tech specs even if your car is slower than what is required to have a cage. The tech told me that if you have one it needs to meet tech, even if you go 15 sec. in the 1/4. His theory is if they ignore your cage during tech because your car is slowr, then you will pass tech, and later you could simply add nitrous and run faster. So they want anything you put in your car to pass tech, regardless of your speed or ET.
I like the Heidt's subframe connectors better. They're bolt in, and the round tubing makes for better clearance without modifying the floors on your car.
Camaro Subframe Connectors, Heidt's, 1970-1981 - Rick's Camaro Parts

 

I don't have a date. I tried for the summer to drive but my Jeep project got carried away. I'm now stuck in O.T. hell. I was working 7 days a weeks to meet production goals. Then we (my manager) decided to go to a 4/10 schedule and dump third shift. Somehow the math doesn't work for me. Now I'm getting the weekends off but I go in at 3:30pm and by the time my paperwork is done and I walk through and lock up its 4am. I put in 63 hours in 5 days last week. But I still had my sons soccer game bright and early Sat morning, so I have been recovering on the weekend. I told my boss yesterday if things don't change I'll will look for another job.

 

If you work on an hourly basis i see that as a good thing working all the overtime, if its salary not so much. It doesnt take long to get burnt out working overtime like that, i know first hand as thats what happened at the job i worked at before this one.

Val, Im going to have to disagree with the Heidts being better then the Hotchkis. Both are bolt in but the Heidt seems to be significantly lighter in design then the Hotchkis. You dont have to modifty the floor and you are able to bolt them in rather then weld, i believe i will weld them in to get as much rigidity as possible. I do have another set of subframe connectors sitting in the shop that look very similar to the Heidts but opted to use Hotchkis due to the fact that the setup is alot stronger. According to that link the connectors are a light walled HSS not roundbar.

Hotchkis Sport Suspension

Last time i went through tech i had to fill out a tech card. The inspector then looks at your estimated time and trap speed. From there it was determined what mods you needed to have (drive shaft loop, cage, parachute) and it was written down on the card. Those cards are all given to the tower and when you race they know what has been teched and what you are allowed to run. If you break the rules you get kicked out.

 

I do have a new question. Does anyone know what the name of the rubber or felt or whatever it would be made out of that bolts to the inner fender to keep the water and road grime from the engine bay? Is there such a thing? If there is i need to order it and i am sure that at one time i seen them for sale in either the year one or classic catalogue.

 

Stumped on that one.

Alston Race Cars makes so of the best SFC for our cars. There are bolt in but hug the floor. I will weld mine in the rear and the fronts will be bolted incase I ever get the sweet aftermarket subframe.

 

I've never been a fan of weld in connectors, just because they need to be cut out if I ever have to drop the spring brackets, or the subframe. Welding does make them much stronger, just limits future maintenance or repair.
I think what you're referring to on the inner fender is called a "splash shield", but 2nd gens didn't use them. If you want to build something to go between the fender and the upper control arm I would make a template of cardboard and then get some thin sheet rubber and cut it out with scissors and attach it to the inner fenderwell.

 

Thanks Val, i never knew that they didnt come with them, maybe someone else can ring in. Im just worried becuase there is a fair bit of chrome and polished items in my engine bay i truthfully i dont have the time and am not willing to put in the effort to clean all of it all the time. I figured there had to be something in there to stop some of the crud.

 

On my 69 Camaro, they call them the control arm dust shield. Maybe you could use a set from a 69? They cost about $20 for a set.

Here's a link: http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-c...-set-1969.html