Find these discs at your hardware store:


They'll make the stripping so much faster and easier! Forget those flapper disc that clog and cut into the metal leaving gouges that need attention later! Eastwood carries them also for $10 each. Probably need 3 to do a whole car, but they save so much time too!
http://www.eastwood.com/poly-x-paint...cup-style.html

 

[QUOTE=bucketlist2011;595073]Ah the stories of when we were younger with more time, and money, and energy...

QUOTE]

Seemed like I had the opposite when I was young! No time, no money, but lots of energy. Now I've got plenty of time, some money, but not the energy!

 

yeah val i like that one,but ur exactly right when i was a teenager i would work on my chevelle day and night,just cant do it any more where did we get so much energy when younger i need some,hahaha.im gonna have to try them discs ur talking about,i have seen them but never tried them,the walnut shells for my sandblaster get very expensive,i think them discs are only like 10 bucks at walmart.gonna have to try one.

 

right now i only have a 24volt cordless drill will it work with that stripping disc.

 

Is there ba good reason that you want to strip all the paint? If you have a good solid factory base, Leave it on. Clean sand and prime on top of it. If you must sand it off, Keep a gasket scraper in your back pocket and scrape the sand paper to remove the chunks of paint.
I used "Dekote" from Eastwood. It worked ok but it was such a mess. Stuck to your shoes and everywhere you went. I'll sand everything off with blocks to keep it flat. Prime it and reblock out.

 

just didnt want to have adhesion problems when i repainted some spots will need to be sanded bare where rust is under the paint but not many,u think it would be ok to paint acrylic enamel over the factory paint wasnt sure if i should.

 

[QUOTE=1971BB427;595214]Haha.. I HAD the money, i am finally getting my Energy back, although never like i was at 23...And I have plenty of time...

But now my Hearing, eyesight, reaction time, mortality awareness, and adult responsibility, is messing it all up.. Not to mention if I ever sieze up again.. The LT-1, I can always get rebuilt...Me ?? uh oh... So i better take it easy

 

Factory paint is an excellent base, If it is still solid. Wash it, Lacquer thin it. Then sand. Anything loose or rusty, then strip,repair and prime. Then prime the whole thing and sand, and sand, and sand. Use guide coat in between to check for flatness.

 

ok thx rydeer i appreciate it,i just always tried taking to bare metal first,gonna try it ur way,u just saved me tons of work and frustration,i owe u one,yeah the paints good its just faded alot but isnt pealing anywhere just a little surface rust hear and there where the paint got chiped.

 

I wanted mine down to the bare metal so I knew exactly what was on it. There was some slight pitting on the pass. quarter. When I basted it the entire quarter had a layer of what looked like flash rust under the paint. After blasting I couldn't see any imperfections in the metal or evidence that the panel had been repainted or replaced. I'm glad I didn't scuff and shoot.

I like those wheels too Vall. I haven't seen them for a 4" grinder like that one in the pic. I see them at the parts store with a 1/4" shaft in them. I think I'll grab a couple in the morning to finish the inside of my car. The same flash rust is on the ceiling. I want nothing that could cause rust later.

BAD my buddy used my 18v to strip his car w/ 5" discs. It killed the drill. A 24v may be able to handle longer run times though.