Probably a major undertaking, but surely not a problem for an advanced motorhead who can weld good!

 

lol, that would be my father in law. He has assembled many full chassised roll caged drag cars. And has even owned a rail a time or two. I may just hang on to the frame rails and connectors for a future trade...

 

Been having some fun gathering up some of the stuff I need to get this project rolling. I finally got my floorpan from a member on NastyZ28.
I got some Double Hump Heads.
Need to find someplace to do some work to them now.





Got me a new Air Compressor



Got me a new sandblaster



I just was given a nice set of fans, they are exactly the same size as my radiator. I just need to figure out how to wire them up, each one has 4 wires to it...



I picked up a badly needed set of coils today, they look brand new, I am going to clean them up and look for a name on them.



Today, I traded off my small 30 gallon Air Compressor, for this awesome 4" bolt on cowl hood.

 

Moving right along! That is a nice hood, and tools are always a welcome addition! I think I spent almost as much on tools as I did parts when I started my resto! Always nice to have the tools, even after the work is done!
Those heads are a super choice in my opinion. I love those old 1.94 and 2.02 heads!

 

Apparently the heads don't need hardened exhaust seats put in for a weekend driver or race car. I just read that in a book about building a performance small block on a budget. So now I just need to figure out what to do with them, sounds like a 30° angle job is the best valve seat. Not sure if that is standard any more, this book was written in '99. Plus I want to give porting and polishing a shot on my own, but I need a good how to to follow.

 

Not much those heads need to be flowing good. Just a clean up, and a valve job. You should get 30,000 miles out of them without going to hardened seats or SS valves. The guy who did mine said not to worry about that for a weekend driver. I figure if I ever wear mine out I'll go to aluminum heads.
As for angle I'd talk to some machine shops and see what they say. Back when mine were done the guy put a 3 angle grind on them, but I really haven't followed the latest fads on valve grinds.

 

Hey ATM! Remember earlier in one of your posts you mentioned the Camaro paint work you read about in Camaro Performers magazine? Well I was working with a guy the other day who owns the car! He lives right here near Portland, Or. and sent the car back to Boston to have the paint done after he got a botched job by a local paint shop here.
Small world huh?

 

It is a small world indeed, funny thing is that is the color I want mine to be. If you get a chance get some live pics of it sometime.

 

Playing a little catchup.

The earlier rears were also an 8.2 10 bolt or a 12 bolt IIRC. I know the 70 was an 8.2.

Actually the fronts won't. 74 was the last year for a non-catylitic converter floorboard. After that the side closest to the transmission hump's rails are offset and shoved up and parallel with seat's underside rail. Supposedly the different rails are 70, 71 - 74 and 75 - 81. Trust me, when I was searching for mine in my 74 I went through 4 sets of rails that everyone assured me would work for my car. If you want I can post some pics of the differences since I still have a set for a 75 - 81. If you need the rails PM me. I've just been lazy and haven't posted them for sale anywhere.

Just sell it and buy a DART or BowTie block and bore it out to a 400 or more. I've found some DART blocks for 900 and some Bowties for 1200.



Your project looks like it's coming along really strong. It was fun catching up what you've been working on.

 

The later seats will work, but not bolt directly in. I believe my friend used the later seats by simply bolting an offset bracket to one hole and then bolting that to the stock hole. No welding even. I'll check with him to see if I can get a picture of the little offset piece he bent up to fit it.