Shouldn't

 

I'd just check it out to see if it's bad, then replace with the earlier style pump without a return line. Chevy used them for decades without a problem.

 

That too. I was thinking it but dont know why I didnt type it. Probably because I just plugged the one on my 86 SWB after putting a fuel cell in the bed.

 

True, many older cars didn't have return style mechanical fuel pumps, but then we didn't have E-10/E-15 fuel either. The return at the pump was added to help solve vapor lock issues that some would get with our crappier gas in extreme heat conditions. Recirculating the gas keeps it cooler in the line, it doesn't heat it up. And if you have a gas perking issue at the carb due to heat, a restricted return right before the carb inlet can help alleviate that problem.

 

Got the new pump installed and now I'm waiting for the epoxy on the tank to setup. I ran a secondary line and it will plug into the top of the tank.

 

Also just ordered this from ebay. Now that the worst of the winter seasons over....

 

lol worst. Were getting a nice coat of freezing rain this morning.

 

My heater box came in. As it turns out.
The hole in the fire wall is for the box with the ac. Its a rectangle cut up and down. The box I got is for the non-ac one. I wanted to ask if any one knows the measurements for the non-ac hole in the firewall. If nothing else, I'll weld up the hole thing and just start over.

Pics.
1 is what I have now.
2 is what I need.

Thanks

 

The one from DSE is the best I've seen. I had the one from Camaro Central but sold it because I was worried it would melt. 80 bucks isnt too bad either.

 

You should be able to set the new box on the firewall and put bolts through the holes that match at the blower end, then use a pencil to mark around the whole box. Then you'll need the correct core to make the hole for the heater core inside the pencil outline. The core goes inside, and the hole must be slightly smaller than the core so the clips can hold it against the firewall. The opening will be the size of the core, but about 1/4"-1/2" smaller all around with a relief cut for the two coolant inlets. So trace the core inside the outline and then cut it smaller than the core to fit.