Where is it? Oh....there it is! Yeah, it does look a bit small for your size hood. Was that called a "mini"?
There are different sizes available, but can't tell you the dimensions though without using google. lol

 

You where right....
I searched for mini fiberglass cowl on Google and found the stock photo they showed me before I bought it. I Think I'll cut it near the back half and build a mold under it to be filled with fiberglass. I did that once before with a body-kit back in my ricer days. Played around with the idea in photoshop. Its better than it was imo. Thoughts?

 

If only it was as easy as photoshop! That length looks better, but I think it's going to look kinda skinny. What are the dimensions of your scoop now? For reference, I have a 4" tall cowl hood for my car (yeah I know they're different, but still). The scoop part is approx. 26" wide at the tapered base, and the length is as long as the hood, plus some-54". The effect of the cowl induction hood is for it to be close to the windshield. If you look at the side of your scoop, where the base ends at the back wants to be to the back edge of the hood. Holding it forward like you have still doesn't look quite right to me.

 

I would shorten it about 6" in the front.

Heres a pic of my AMD hood.

 

Either cowl "scoop" will be tough to blend in, and it will require you to gradually blend it clear out to the body line on the hood in order to not see the flange on the scoop.
The key to bonding it and having it stay bonded is proper prep. You'll need to get the area under the scoop doen to bare metal, then lay out the scoop and pre drill all the holes to rivet it down. Use the rivets themselves in each hole as you drill them all.
Once it's all drilled you can mix up epoxy and coat the back of the scoop flange with it, then quickly pop rivet the scoop to the hood. Smooth out the excess epoxy before it dries. Then it will needs fibeglass cloth (not mat) to make several overlapping layers all around the edges. I used 2" cloth rolls, as they're esier to work with, and I could precut and lay them all out prior to starting. I started with one right on the edge, then overlapped one each direction from that, and then one over the middle again. This gave me 4 layers at the thickest point.
After it all set up I scuffed and shaped the high spots with a sanding disc, and tapered out the edges. Ater that I gave it all a coat of Duraglass that's a very hard filler, and sanded that. Then it's just normal bodywork and sanding to get it all blended in and visually perfect.
Mine was on there about 25 yrs. when I sold the hood after buying the steel cowl I have now, and never had any cracks.
edit-I hope that's a fiberglass cowl! If it's not fiberglass, then forget even trying to bond it.

 

Holy Crap! He speaks!

 

Yeah, its been a wile.

 

Must have finally gotten over that bad case of fingertip laryngitis!

 

So anyway....
Wile I try to decide on what to do with my hood, if anything.
I pulled the AC controls, since the AC system has been out for a long time. I'm going to make a flat panel in that spot for some control switches. Probably just Main power, radio, dome light, under-hood light, and a trunk light. I can do the lights and radio easily, but I've never done a battery kill switch. I want to cut a gap in the (+) battery cable and install a 12V solenoid. Is that right? I did not think running almost 1000 amps tho the firewall was such a good idea.
I really like the setup in the pic below. Each switch has its own fuse and indication light.

 

Make sure you label those switches. Sure would hate to mix up the ejector seat and missile launchers!