I found a set on ebay for about 1200.

 

so im definatly going with the AFR heads but i cannot choose my cam until i know my transmission and rear end ratios. im going to use a 4.10 rear end do you guys have any good suggestions for trannsmissions i tried to google the best i could find was a TKO 500/600 sequencial but i found some reviews and it was 50/50 good and bad. what have you guys used that worked well or know of ones that work.

 

Wait I can help you. 450 hp easy. Figure in the pistons, deck height, quench, fuel grade, rod length, cc of head's chambers, compression ratio with cam and then determine rear ratio by rpm/power curve, use of vehicle, and transmission gears. Let me know TWO things to begin: 1) Pump gas/ race gas? Street or drag car or both or touring etc. 2) And Budget.

 

as far as feul goes it must be able to run on 94 ethonol free of course, streep/strip car so i would prob use race feul when i go to the track, budget is not a real issue as its a probject that has no real compleation date so i can just save longer if i have too.
-flat top pistons 10.7 compression with a 64cc chamber
-deck height is0.082
-dont know what gasket size gsket to use must do further research
-and still not certain on cam but thinking ill use a crane cam called the saturday night special gross lift of .518 a mid range torque but im still debating i might want more bottom end for a light to light monster
-with this cam and the tremec tko 600 with a .82 fith gear i could even use a 4.56:1 rear end

but this is my first build and am very open minded to opions and advive

 

Ok. You will be driving it to the track?
And maybe street light to street light? This to me means Pump fuel. An AFR headed -92octane pump fuel 383 has little effort putting out 450 crank hp. It will fart that out without trying with AFR heads. The 10.7:1 compression and crane H244 although they are a good match with the TKO and 4.10 and higher gears in an AFR headed 383, they simply aren't needed for 450-480hp mark. I wouldn't do it in a 350 or smaller, because it would be out of my league in rpm and parts cost. You will need major traction control and tire width &/or tire type (sticky etc.). Your combo is actually a perfect working combo for a 383+CID after much analysis.

 

yes will be driving to and hopefully if nothing breaks home from track aswell
for tracktion im will prob do a semi tub maybe 12"-14" wide radial drag (i think BFG makes them) do keep my rpm low enough to drive to the strip i need at least 27" tall
rpm will rev out at probably 6500-7000 but i might use a smaller cam to bring that down abit i want power band to start at maybe 3800
i think the victor jr deul plane intake is the best match but i gotta look into what dart is doing right now

 

If you're looking for high RPM power, with a PB starting at "3800", then I wouldn't use a dual plane intake. You'll want an open plenum to get to that "6500-7000" range.

 

VIC jr. is a single plane. With performer rpm intake-Your Tq will be above 400+ from 2800 rpm and peak around 4400 and your HP will peak at 5500- 5800 rpm wich is perfect but your hp will be down compared to a so called "smaller" voodoo or comp XE grind with the comp xe and voodoo line and AFR heads it will be more street happy. The H244 cam is a very hairy cam and is the limit for an automatic 383 but you got a manual trans. A dyno of the H244 crane & with trick flow fast burn style aluminum heads showed a 421hp peak @5400 and 448 lb.-ft. tq @ 4300 rpm I would definately give it a bump up from those numbers with the AFR heads and performer RPM dual plane witch also was the manifold used. The rpm specified on crane's site is an AVG rpm band with a 283-454 CID equation= so in a 327-350. The trick flows only liked 32* timing with this cam. Its like an older simpler grind I imagine but probably easy on valvetrains. plus the heads are fast burn and a little small. The AFR is just going to take off. You could even clean port polish the afrs (professionally) or go with their finest cut heads also to bump power a little more. The AFR likes the aggressive ramp cams alot as well. But this cam is making great torque in a 383. You might opt for a vic jr or AFR titan intake or hurricane intake as well. I like the Vic jr. Regardless any Intake should be port matched to heads and proper gasket selected. These things may bring the rpm band up some but with the very effecient AFR's it will fight it and just make fatter power. So you may look at the AFR 210's and big comp cam to get into the RPM range your looking for in a 383 (7000). But you may be into 530+ hp by the time your done then a smaller cam like your H244 would be in order to detune rpm so your engine survives and not explode. I personally would limit rpm to 6500 in a 450hp 350 and 6000-6200 in a 450+hp 383. fat drivable TQ and cruise. this only means you will have enough gear with your cam. AFR heads, 4.10, and TKO and 27"tire. I think it'll be good and tight. Even with the TFS heads you'll run 12's

 

hey thanks a million man, im happy to get some real solid advice i'd like to keep those rpm down to that range, im going to read up on those cams you recomended im going to try and call comp to see what they say. i have to keep the hp and torque below 550 i am no where near ready for a 550+ motor in driving ability and building skills. i wached a dino on youtube they used the vic jr intake with a fel-pro 1205 gasket and i think it was about 6250rpm hit 465hp so that would be perfect i just gotta try and find it again to see what cam they were using.
just wondering though is the "voodo line" a came or a cam serise?

 

Yeeah...Awesome-ness...The VOODOO series cams are Lunati but designed by UD harold, who designed all the best off-the-shelf cams and XE series as well as all the original hot sellers. Look up 'UD Harold, & Harold Brookshire on net It will have his number call him he can recomend very well. AFR195's are definately the way to go. They have 64cc or 75cc so you got room to play there- depending on cam choice- to alter compression to suit a range of cams. And you still want to use as close a gasket as you can for proper quench height. And if you don't make as much power as you thought you could- you can use a bigger cam-don't worry 'cause these heads will only be able to use a very wide range of cams. These heads are the absolute bomb. Also I would have a very competent person place lifter valley oil splash guards, block oil drain chamfers, crank scraper, select melling oil pump & welded pickup with a good size pan(professional attention required for scraper and block clearancing for 383 rotating assembly) because reliability and power benefits are achieved. as well as a professional precision balancing of the rotating assembly by very competent builder NO mallory metal or the like..Look for +/- .5 gram.That is within the weight of a dollar bill. Give them your balancer, pulley-wether use it or not, flyweel or flexplate and everything inbetween. And at least a scat 9000 or forged crank for added assurance dont go 'cast' crank. Don't use H-beam rods. .your pwr does not need the heavy low rpm destroyers..I prefer to find a good 5.85" rod and piston for 383 CID vs. 5.7" or 6" rods and pistons... Stock 400 sbc cranks are stronger than a new cast scat or eagle cranks because of all sorts of combined issues, ie: shipping drops a box, instant hairline micro fracture. ..So no, just go with a step above rock bottom cranks at minimum.And your good as gold. Just to be sure...'insurance'.. like studding your mains..ARP bolts. strong everything- but light weight internals..etc...And don't stop here ask hundred's of people and use your best judgement...Later. P.S. sorry soo dense.