Depending on what level you're building the engine to, I would consider using as much of the original rotating assembly as possible. Stock crank and rods are very well built, and can withstand a lot of 6,000 rpm runs with no issues, even in a 2 bolt main block.
Summit sells a kit with hypertectic pistons and every part you need (except the cam/lifters/pushrods) to totally rebuild a 350 Chevy, for $232. It's all name brand quality parts in the kit.
Summit Racing SUM-SBCKIT1-611 - Summit Racing® Chevy 350 Engine Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I'd order new hardened pushrods from Summit also. My last set from them cost $24, so cheap insurance.
I usually tear the engine down and reassemble the rods and their caps, and mains as I pull them. Then take the bare block, crank, rods/pistons to the machine shop and have the block hot tanked, magnafluxed, and measured to see what it needs. Once they tell me what it needs to be bored, and what the crank needs to be turned, then I order my rebuild kit to those specs. Don't order anything until they tell you what it needs.
After getting the kit I take it all to the shop and let them put the pistons on the rods, and install the soft plugs. I always have my rods resized, and the mains align bored, regardless of what it needs. It just makes it all better.
Once they have all that done I bring it home and fit all the rings to their cylinders and install them on the corresponding piston assembly. Then it's just assembling the engine carefully and putting it all together.
Cam/lifters depend on your use for the car. The Summit cams and lifters are built by Crane, and they are good stuff. The Summit/Crane 274/274 .450" lift cam is a great all around choice, and works with a stock trans and converter for automatics. It makes great power right off idle, and is close in specs to the old 350/350hp Chevy cam. Nice lopey idle, and still not too radical for everyday driving.
Summit Racing SUM-K00172 - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Cam Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Depending on your heads, and your plan for the engine, I'd either have them rebuilt with larger 2.02"/1.60" stainless steel valves and hardened seats, or get some good flowing heads. Nothing wrong with cast iron heads if your's are decent and not the low performance heads. But they definitely need to be gone through if you're doing the whole engine.

 

Yes I have done it a time or two, I forgot push rods. I didn't know it was your wifes car. That is another trip. Val's (1971BB427) opinion on rebuilding the stock stuff may be a better option. No way would I put a stoker in my womans car. They make so much low end grunt, as soon as she stabs the gas like its your average FWD car she will be doing dough nuts.

 

Yeah, it's something between her and her sister. The sister had it for 30+ years, it was her first car she ever owned. But she signed it over to my wife who may wind up selling it back after the restoration. All I know for sure is it's not mine...I'm just doing the grunt work.

But so far I've enjoyed working on it. When I'm done I might just find one for myself.

 

Yay! got the engine pulled. She slide right out without too much of a fight. Even managed to not disturb the bird nest on the intake manifold.

I've never seperated an AT from an engine before. Is there anything I need to know, or is it pretty much the same as a manual tranny - unbolt it and pull it apart?

Thanks

 

Thanks for the info. I agree with Damon, this sounds like a better plan for my car. Now I just need to find a machine shop I can trust.

 

When separating an automatic you need to unbolt the three bolts that connect the torque converter to the flexplate first! Then take a large screwdriver and slip it between the flexplate and converter to pry it back. It may slide back by hand even, as it doen't take much to move it. Then it's just unbolting the bellhousing and it will drop off.

 

Thanks. I'm guessing the flexplate is the same thing as a flywheel.

 

A "flywheel" is what is used with a manual transmission.
A "flexplate" is what is used with an automatic trans. It's called that because................it flexes (and it's supposed to).
Whereas a flywheel, which is thick, rigid, and much heavier, doesn't flex.
Some people mistakenly call a flexplate a flywheel, but never the other way around.

 

Great. Sorry for all the questions. The Chiltons book I bought on the Camaro is useless for most of the tasks I'm having to undertake. I usually get Haynes but they didn't have one when I was at the store.

 

nice work i also agree,that summitt rebuild kit is an awesome product for the price,would make a very good rebuild,and them summitt cams are really good also,almost got one of them before deciding to go solid roller.