Tunnel Ram Setup

Old Feb 27, 2011 | 06:21 PM
  #81  
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What's the issue with the throttle cable? Is it not long enough, or enought ravel for full throttle?? I don't see any vacuum advance connection for the distributor? Is it hooked in somewhere I don't see, or don't you have one? They really help on a tunnel ram in a street application.
 
Old Feb 27, 2011 | 06:28 PM
  #82  
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The throttle just seems really stiff. If I unhook the rear carb it works really smooth and easy to push the throttle down. I think that there should be some bushings or washers on the linkage that connects the two carbs but there isn't...

The distributor that I wound up with is a mallory and it does not have vacuum advance I wish it did but I got a great deal on it so it is what I went with for now anyway....

Any ideas on how to cut the hole in the hood????
 
Old Feb 27, 2011 | 06:36 PM
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Did the video work???
 
Old Feb 27, 2011 | 06:43 PM
  #84  
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I had a problem with my throttle being stiff too. Mine was partially because the turns in the throttle cable, but your's looks straight. I also had too stiff a return spring. The Holleys have a coil return spring on the primary shaft, so with duals that spring pressure doubles. I went to NAPA and got a double return spring, then took them apart and used one on each carb. Really lightened up my throttle pedal feel.
You might also improve the feel by ditching the hard rod that ties the two carbs together and using a hard rod with heim jont ends. The heim joints are much smoother and will allow free movement of the linkage. I found them at my local Ace Hardware store for $7 ea. and they also had the 10-32 threaded rod in 12" or 36" lengths. Just get two RH thread heims, a couple nuts, and a couple heims. Then you can cut the threaded rod and adj. the joints to fit between the carbs.
Mine are sitting sideways, but you can see the heim joint setup to the carbs in this pic. I've got so many pivot points I had to do something to help it:
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 06:58 PM
  #85  
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Heim joints is a great idea... I think that is the way I will go... but if you look at the linkage between the carbs will have to be bent the way it is now because it comes up and hits the rear fuel inlet to the carb. but I could bend or make a rod like that that is threaded on the ends to accept the heim fittings.....
 
Old Feb 27, 2011 | 07:51 PM
  #86  
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Yes, you can easily bend the 10-32 threaded rod to match the existing rod, then bolt it on.
 
Old Mar 2, 2011 | 03:51 AM
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What did you use to attach the joint to the carb. The hole in the carb linkage is pretty big and was wondering how to keep it centered in the hole?
 
Old Mar 2, 2011 | 08:02 AM
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I used 10-32 screws with locking nuts and attached to the smaller hole just below that huge hole. You can see it in this pic a little better:
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I put a nut on either side of the carb connection, so I could lock it down tight and not bind on the heim joint.
 
Old Mar 3, 2011 | 06:32 AM
  #89  
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Ah.... Ok I see where you hooked it on at... I will have to take a look at mine to see if the heim will fit in that location because my throttle cable hooks into the hole just below that.
 
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 11:39 AM
  #90  
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Well got the Tach wired up and the kick down cable installed. Started on hood but don't really like the way the hole looks. I cut it out with a jigsaw and went through 3 or 4 blades. really couldn't make rounded cuts because the blade would break. So the corners are square. I think I am going to install an L-88 fiberglass scoop onto the hood, but I have never worked with fiberglass... Anyone have any tips? Is there something I need to do to get the fiberglass to bond to the steal hood? I have tried to find some instructional sites on-line but all the ones I find are how to make speaker boxes and stuff so I don't really think they would help much...
 

Last edited by Bad_Z28; Mar 6, 2011 at 04:15 PM.

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