transmission swap
#12
06-07-2011, 02:41 AM
I would check your tools first before you do this...
I would say you must have one of these before you proceed.
$80 and worth every penny. also have 3+ feet 3/8 or 1/2 extension(s) and swivel or swivel socket.
Do yourself a favor. Drain the transmission before you remove it. It will just leak all over the place. (remove the pan and let in drain) plus it will slightly lighten the load.
I agree with Val on what you need to do to get that thing out. But don't forget to remove the starter. And heres a tip that might help you out, remove the transmission cross member before the bell house bolts that way you can lower the transmission with the jack to access the upper bell house bolts with ease. Using those extensions I was talking about. I would price out some new cooler lines as well since the flare on the line is probably going to be seized and twist all to chit when you try and remove them if your not carefully. use two wrenches and soak them with some good penetrate if they are seized. If you have headers I'm sorry... the job got a little bit tougher.
I would say you must have one of these before you proceed.
$80 and worth every penny. also have 3+ feet 3/8 or 1/2 extension(s) and swivel or swivel socket.
Do yourself a favor. Drain the transmission before you remove it. It will just leak all over the place. (remove the pan and let in drain) plus it will slightly lighten the load.
I agree with Val on what you need to do to get that thing out. But don't forget to remove the starter. And heres a tip that might help you out, remove the transmission cross member before the bell house bolts that way you can lower the transmission with the jack to access the upper bell house bolts with ease. Using those extensions I was talking about. I would price out some new cooler lines as well since the flare on the line is probably going to be seized and twist all to chit when you try and remove them if your not carefully. use two wrenches and soak them with some good penetrate if they are seized. If you have headers I'm sorry... the job got a little bit tougher.
#13
06-07-2011, 08:57 AM
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 9,097
If the flexplate isn't being removed, then no reason to remove the starter. You'll actually want the stater connected to bump the engine so you can turn it to get to the 3 flexplate bolts. The starter attaches to the block on late Chevys, so it wont be an issue.
When I don't have a starter I use a pair of large vise grip pliers to clamp the flexplate and turn it to access the bolts.
When I don't have a starter I use a pair of large vise grip pliers to clamp the flexplate and turn it to access the bolts.
#15
06-07-2011, 07:46 PM
I would check your tools first before you do this...
I would say you must have one of these before you proceed.
$80 and worth every penny. also have 3+ feet 3/8 or 1/2 extension(s) and swivel or swivel socket.
Do yourself a favor. Drain the transmission before you remove it. It will just leak all over the place. (remove the pan and let in drain) plus it will slightly lighten the load.
I agree with Val on what you need to do to get that thing out. But don't forget to remove the starter. And heres a tip that might help you out, remove the transmission cross member before the bell house bolts that way you can lower the transmission with the jack to access the upper bell house bolts with ease. Using those extensions I was talking about. I would price out some new cooler lines as well since the flare on the line is probably going to be seized and twist all to chit when you try and remove them if your not carefully. use two wrenches and soak them with some good penetrate if they are seized. If you have headers I'm sorry... the job got a little bit tougher.
I would say you must have one of these before you proceed.
$80 and worth every penny. also have 3+ feet 3/8 or 1/2 extension(s) and swivel or swivel socket.
Do yourself a favor. Drain the transmission before you remove it. It will just leak all over the place. (remove the pan and let in drain) plus it will slightly lighten the load.
I agree with Val on what you need to do to get that thing out. But don't forget to remove the starter. And heres a tip that might help you out, remove the transmission cross member before the bell house bolts that way you can lower the transmission with the jack to access the upper bell house bolts with ease. Using those extensions I was talking about. I would price out some new cooler lines as well since the flare on the line is probably going to be seized and twist all to chit when you try and remove them if your not carefully. use two wrenches and soak them with some good penetrate if they are seized. If you have headers I'm sorry... the job got a little bit tougher.
#16
06-07-2011, 10:13 PM
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Jackson, MI
Posts: 36
yup, i have like 4 guys and a floor jack too. im really not worried about taking the old one out, its putting the new one in that scares me haha
#17
06-07-2011, 10:26 PM
Ya, well I'm rebuilding mine and am hopefully gonna be able to start on it here soon. But I got a nice cast aluminum oil pan for mine with my tc combo from summit and I'm just gonna put a piece of wood between the pan and the floor jack to keep the pan from being scratched up from the floor jack. And then when I go to put it back in I will just have my brothers hold it steady while I get it lined up and bolted in.
#20
06-08-2011, 07:51 AM
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 9,097
The dowel pins are what will make it all much easier. If not for them it would be nearly impossible to get the thing lined up and get the bolts started. The problem with a floor jack is the one set of fixed wheels. Nearly impossible to get it lined up and run it straight forward without the fixed wheels not allowing side to side adjustment.
A trick I use is to get the trans close, then have two really long 3/8" bolts handy. Once you're close you can use those two bolts started on each side to get it sort of held in place. Then as you maneuver it closer to get the guide pins set the bolts will help. After the pins start to slip in you can start the shorter bolts and then replace the two long ones. I usually use something around 3" long.
A trick I use is to get the trans close, then have two really long 3/8" bolts handy. Once you're close you can use those two bolts started on each side to get it sort of held in place. Then as you maneuver it closer to get the guide pins set the bolts will help. After the pins start to slip in you can start the shorter bolts and then replace the two long ones. I usually use something around 3" long.