I am new to the board, feel free to slap me about and yell newb.

I am buying a 79 RS. I decoded the vin and found it to have a 305. I am a little bummed but it's better than a 6 right. What options do I have as far as bringing this motor to life? I am looking at a 350/383, would the motor have to be from 79 or could later years work? I think I have access to a 92 350 crate motor but don't know if it would work properly without a ton of modifications. I am not looking for a tire shredding 9 second machine, but I would like to be able to put my head in the headrest from time to time . Budget is a concern, but I am a technician for GM so I can get some things cheaper. I am completely new to V8's, I had a neon before lol. Thanks for any advice.

 

If you ask me, take out the 305 and put ANYTHING else in. You could probably get the 92 350 (LT1?) in ok, but the computer stuff is gonna be a pain, or you could add a carbedalum intake and go that way.

Im a big fan of the ZZ4 line of eng. from GM performance parts, if you work for them, you could get abetter price than I did.Look at www.morethanjustpower.comfor an idea of retail prices.

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Thanks for the info. Now onto looking for a well loved 350. Is any particular year or vehicle better to get one from?

 

I would try to get one from the 1970 early 80sera, I cant remember when it was but at some point in the 90s the fuel pump provision on the block is gone so you would need to go electric. A four bolt main block is prefered not required. In general most of these engines will need rebuilt it will cost you the same as a cheap goodwrench engine but you can make yours the way you want it. A little bit about 350 blocks.... As I said a 4 bolt main is preferable but a 2 bolt can still be a stout engine. There has been alotof info putout there about the 010, 020 blocks. This designation can be found on the block behind the timing cover it was first intended to mean a high nickle/ high tin and indicate a premium block my machinist tells me there is no difference in the blocks from the early 1970 on this is also supported by others who actually worked on the gm casting line, why I bring it up is do not let a seller use this for a premium price on a engine. If the engine is apart I will look for casting shift in the lifter bore area and can area the only real way to check out the block is to take it to a machine shop have it magnafluxed and or pressure tested.
Factory cast cranks are actually fairly stout if it need turned down make sure they put a fillet radius on it. There are cheap othions for a aftermarket cast crank in a 3.75 stroke vrs the factory 3.48 factory stroke it makes the 350 a 383. Factory rods in my opinion is to pitch them you can buy forged new rods for close to the same price as resizing the factory ones. Pistons go flat top type is the best you can afford, camshaft depends on application types are flat tappit hydraulic or solid, roller solid or hydraulic. The only reason not to go roller is cost especially with the break in issues with todays oils and cam grinds. Heads I would say with your goal and because you work for GM a set of new Vortec heads is the way I would go they need a specific manifold but for the cost they are a very effecient design. Remember some of the newer blocks do not have fuel pump provisions and some of the older engines do not have accessory bracket holes in the heads.

 

Hey Griff,

Don't you mean one the back of the engine, driver side behind the distributor right at the mating point of the transmission? The only ones I know on the front of the engine is for the Engine code and VIN which are on the plate/deck in front of the passenger side head and those are stamped in.

Mortec Block casting number locations

I know mine's a 010 casting and it's located on the back of the engine.

 

No I think the 010 casing you are talking about is the casting number ID for the block the last in the sequence of numbers the numbers I mentioned are behind the timing and can be found else where on the block but under the timing cover is the common spot I have a (I am guessing at the block casting id) 3970010 block that has the 010/020 designation and I have another 3970010 block with just the 010 desingnation and I had another 3970010 block without any, my point is that it is not a good indicator if the block is high nickel or tin. It seems to be a selling point for some people if its a block from the 60s I would believe it.

 

Oh, I think I follow you now. It's a different number that tells what the metal content is and not the actual casting number? Is that what you're meaning? I have my timing cover lose since I'm rebuilding it and I'll check it later on mine while it's still on the stand. That's kind of cool to know.

 

That is what it was originally intended for from what Ive researched it isnt a true indicator. Read these posts the guy by the name of barry is very informative. http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...nickel+content

 

Oh, my head is spinning, so much to learn. Thanks everyone, it's been very enlightening.

 

you 350 mongers make me want to puke LMAO. what happened to good ole 305 camaro pride? if you happen to know alittle about engines, the 305 can be a stimulating build. most basic early 80's models had 150 stock HP. with a little machine work and some quality parts, that number is easily doubled. increasing the HP on a 305? acouple thousand dollars ... smoking a 350 owner with a 305? Priceless. Sick