My 81 project

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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 08:42 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by hardtail
I have no building of any kind to put the car in... where its at in the pics is where I would have to build it. I'm thinking I might restart with a running/driveable car that doesnt need quite so much work. I got to looking at just some of the parts I'll need, and the money it will take just to get it in running condition I could have bought 2 running cars.

I put it up for sale (just trying to get my money back) and I'll start saving up for another car. I sold a guitar last night so if I can get my $700 back out of the car and engine I'll have $1200. Gonna look around the house and see what other crap I can sell I dont use/need.

I'm thinking this one might be a better starting point...
http://www.golsn.com/listings/automo...s/1091869.html
As far as a place to build it,they sell those portable garage things,that are basically made from tarps,but that would give you some cover while working on it.Building your car yourself is the best way to go,and you can learn as you go,plus when it's all done you get the satisfaction of knowing you are the one that got it to that point.Another good part is you can spend money when you have it and can always find something to do on the car even when you dont have extra cash to spend at the time.
 
Old Oct 22, 2009 | 06:26 PM
  #62  
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I can do the body work and paint... I went to school for that many moons ago (I painted the black 1980 RS in my sig. right where its at... the same place the current car is) so I'm not too concerned with that part. I can weld (as long as its not a gas tank... lol) and I know how to turn a bolt... its the drivetrain and major electrical that I dont have a clue about. Your right B.M. about learning as I go and being proud of what I accomplished. I went through that while building the bike... this is just a WHOLE lot more complicated (and expensive). A bike is pretty simple compared to a whole car plus everything was there, all I had to do pretty much was transfer everything over to the new frame. Perhaps I am giving up too early... hell I've only had it a few weeks! lol Maybe I'm just too anxious to get it done. I regret selling my '80 and I guess I'm just wanting it back. When I dont know how do do something it frustrates me and I just want to say the hell with it. For some things I have the patience of Job, but for other things I have none. I dont have a clue what 1971BB427 said and THAT frustrates me because I want to know. I cant stand wanting to do something but not knowing how to do it.
 
Old Oct 22, 2009 | 06:48 PM
  #63  
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Based on what you've said, I think getting a running car that you can then rework to your desire is the best idea. It will definitely save money, if it's in solid shape. If it's not you'll be right back where you are now, only more money out of pocket.
If you go looking at cars be sure to take a screwdriver or a pocket knife, and lay down beside it and check those floorboards. Either item will easily penetrate a weak pan that is rusted out and let you know if you want it or not. Open the trunk and check the floor pan there too.
Wish I could explain things better. I've been fooling with cars since I was a pre teen, and I'm 59 now, so sometimes I think everyone is well versed enough to get my drift. If you want to spend some small money that will help you save tons in the future; start investing in some books and magazines. One great example is "How to Hotrod Big Blcok Chevy's" or the companion, "How to Hot Rod Small Block Chevy's".
There's also a lot of books around that explain the how to's of mechanical repairs. Well worth the money for what they will do to help you.
 
Old Oct 22, 2009 | 06:50 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
A "Chrysler lug" is a std. automotive connector. If you look at the fuse block located under the dash on the driver's side, you'll see there are male terminals that are beside several of the fuses. Those are "male Chrysler lugs" so called because Chrysler was the first to design and use this type of automotive connector. These are usually 1/4" wide on cars, but can be found in various other widths on other installations.
Anyway, if you get a female lug and crimp it on a wire, you can then attach the other end to the pos. terminal of the battery and plug it into the terminal beside the fuse.
Take a look here at Grainger for a picture of the teminal. 1A092 and 1A093 are the male and female styles with insulation.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...1=Terminals%2C

What you will be doing is feeding the fuse block with 12 v. power, so anything that's connected to the block will also be "hot" with 12v. power. Some fuses are switched from the key, and some are not, so you may have to move from one connection to another to get everything tested.
You'll also want to be sure nothing is shorted or touching ground before you start, or it will blow the fuses.
I'm doing research into this so I can try it. I'm still pretty much in the dark with what you said (my fault not yours) but I'm trying to learn it. Thank you for taking the time to explain.
 
Old Oct 22, 2009 | 06:58 PM
  #65  
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I dont know.. I'm about half temped to keep the one I got and MAKE it work! lol I need to learn all this anyway. I'll be 39 next month and I'm not getting any younger so it might as well be now.
 
Old Oct 22, 2009 | 06:59 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ATM
Just connect an end of the wire to the fuse panel, and take it to the battery.
Where at on the fuse panel?
 
Old Oct 22, 2009 | 07:56 PM
  #67  
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I would imagine anywhere, the same way that you would backfeed your house with a generator. All you have to do is get an extension cord with two male ends on it, and plug it into an outlet on the house (after shutting off your main breakers of course), then you would have the ability to turn on a couple lights and keep the fridge running.

If you plug one of the spade connectors into the fuse panel, it should energize the panel so that you could test all of the other connections. Again, I have not done this, but I would try it if I had to, it should work.
 
Old Oct 22, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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Look at your fuse block. By some fuses you'll see a 1/4" male spade connector. Just attach a female 1/4" spade to a wire and plug the female onto the fuse block. Then attach another wire to a metal spot under the dash. Now coonect the ends to your battery, and you'll have 12 volts to the fuse block.
 
Old Oct 22, 2009 | 11:42 PM
  #69  
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Haha i know exactly what you meen about the patience thing.Mine is an 81 also,i've had it since april,the only real difference is it runs and drives but still needs alot of work on both drivetrain and body so i have'nt drove it since i got it and it drives me crazy,i want to give up and buy another one all the time lol,but then i'll get something finished on it and reality sets in that one day i will have a really nice car.I had an 80 a few years ago that was 99% finished when i got it,just needed paint.but 8 months after i got it my engine caught on fire and destroyed all the wiring,dash,windshield,pretty much the front half of the car,at first i had every intention of fixing it back up,but gave up way to soon and parted it out.I still regret not at least putting a little more effort into fixing it back up,it's been 4 years and i still think about what i could have done to it.
 
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 06:53 AM
  #70  
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That sucks your car catching on fire... I'm hoping that wont happen to me when I try to power up the car! I'll try it tonight if it isnt raining.
 



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