You'll need to figure out which wire was the wire that attached to the positive terminal along with the positive battery cable. Once you find it (it's a 10-12ga wire) then hook that to the battery, and neg jumper to the frame.
You could also just make up a jumper wire and crimp on a female Chrysler lug to the end and plug it into the fuse block on a spare terminal to back feed the block, then attach that to the battery, and a jumper from bare metal under the dash to ground.

 

Chrysler lug? Does that have anything to do with the wheel on my brothers Dodge truck? Words cannot express the graditude I have for the help I have received on this site by members such as yourself... however... I dont have a clue what you just said! lol

I can change my oil, my spark plugs, my filters... hell I even been known to change my mind ocassionally... but jumping a female Chrysler while crimping the battery when by bare block is being bacfed, simply makes no sense to me... at least none that has anything to do with a car. Here are a few pics of my engine compartment. This is what I have to work with.

 

A "Chrysler lug" is a std. automotive connector. If you look at the fuse block located under the dash on the driver's side, you'll see there are male terminals that are beside several of the fuses. Those are "male Chrysler lugs" so called because Chrysler was the first to design and use this type of automotive connector. These are usually 1/4" wide on cars, but can be found in various other widths on other installations.
Anyway, if you get a female lug and crimp it on a wire, you can then attach the other end to the pos. terminal of the battery and plug it into the terminal beside the fuse.
Take a look here at Grainger for a picture of the teminal. 1A092 and 1A093 are the male and female styles with insulation.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...1=Terminals%2C

What you will be doing is feeding the fuse block with 12 v. power, so anything that's connected to the block will also be "hot" with 12v. power. Some fuses are switched from the key, and some are not, so you may have to move from one connection to another to get everything tested.
You'll also want to be sure nothing is shorted or touching ground before you start, or it will blow the fuses.

 

I think he is talking about a male spade connector (maybe not with glass fuses)... Just connect an end of the wire to the fuse panel, and take it to the battery. Then connect one from ground on the car to the negative on the battery. This would effectively backfeed your car. I don't see why it would not work... But I am not 100% sure on it.

 

Thanks ATM. Sometimes I use terminology that is common in the trade, not really thinking about generic terminology, and whether others are familiar with the term I use. Gotta read my posts better before I post them.

 

Being an ATM and Computer Tech, I tend to lose people alot. I had never heard of a chrysler lug before, and googling didn't turn anything up, but I could not imagine what else it would be.

 

Everything I have read in these last few posts makes me think I have jumped in WAY over my head.

I'm just a dumb truck driver. I built the bike in my avatar but it was a simple process... unbolt the engine from the doner bike and re-bolt it into the new frame, unplug connectors from the old bike, transfer the wiring harness (idiot proof by the way) to the new frame, replug the connectors, make a few brackets, fabricate a kickstand mount, rewire the new taillight (the only thing I had to wire by hand), shoot a few coats of acrylic enamel, and, PRESTO! a custom Harley! I thought because I built a bike I can build a car.. silly me.

This is a totally different animal. This actually requires skill and talent... I'm not sure if I can do this.

 

Undertaking anything new can be pretty scarey. If you have the mechanical apptitude to build the Harley, then I bet you've got the know how to learn the in's and out's of building the Camaro.
The biggest thing is having a dry, well lit, and big enough shop. Then the tools, and finally the important part....money. Actually #1 isn't as important, if you can work on it in the summer, and store it all winter. My garage is big enough for my Camaro, but not big enough to work in. I started in summer working every nice day, then leaving it in the garage on ugly days. Not convienient, but I eventually got it sent off for paint. My big problem will come when the paint is done, and I have to just drive it into the garage and wait for nice weather to reassemble it!

 

I have no building of any kind to put the car in... where its at in the pics is where I would have to build it. I'm thinking I might restart with a running/driveable car that doesnt need quite so much work. I got to looking at just some of the parts I'll need, and the money it will take just to get it in running condition I could have bought 2 running cars.

I put it up for sale (just trying to get my money back) and I'll start saving up for another car. I sold a guitar last night so if I can get my $700 back out of the car and engine I'll have $1200. Gonna look around the house and see what other crap I can sell I dont use/need.

I'm thinking this one might be a better starting point...
http://www.golsn.com/listings/automo...s/1091869.html

 

I got my car with no engine in it either, no interior and it was partially disassembled. I finished pulling it apart, now it is down to a rolling chassis. I am thinking that is as far as I am pulling it apart. The reassembly process I am not looking forward to. My idea is to get a donor car, complete that I can look at while transferring parts over. As for being a dumb truck driver, I was a dumb laborer for 14 years, I was a bottom man on a Sewer and Water crew for 10, moved up to a layout person, then to foreman. Realized that there was nothing left for me in the business and got out. Anyone can move forwards. Getting a car that is in decent shape and fine tuning it probably would be loads cheaper, not to mention easier.