Hp guess

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  #41  
Old 09-11-2013 | 10:16 PM
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Here's a 7.68 pass got another 7.69 so another .1 just tweaking. Still no race gas. Also ran a 7.65@ 92.8. Still on street tire 2k stall. Don't floor it till right before second. 1.80 best 60' but make up .2 on 60' in 1/8, so up top isn't problem.1.6 60' should get me to at least 7.30-7.40 or better.


He jumped here, but I ran .001 quicker and 5 mph faster.



 
  #42  
Old 09-24-2013 | 09:26 PM
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I know it took a while to get er going and back to track. Any thoughts? I think slicks are next, then stall. Someone told me stall will make a bigger difference than gear. It did in fact have a 2.41 gear btw. Now traction is hindering factor and the fact is still not apples to apples as far as baseline best. Best was at better track with 4 gal vp 110. Best previous here was 8.23@92ish best in crossville was 7.98@97. Can't figure out why such a big mph diff has to be race fuel (don't buy here $2 more/gal, so it's a principle thing) and that you can flat out hook up. Best here after gear swap 7.65@92.8 so about .6 from gear. The biggest evidence to stall improvement is the huge pickup on big end. If I tromp it off line it will jump up and then start spinning at about 10 mph. You can't tell in vid, but I would have killed the car running beside me in qtr. he was already in third I was at bottom of second. I picked up .1 from first trip with gear with just a jet change, so there is some left in this motor, especially if I get traction. I also don't really believe the calculators are right on bc no one believes .2 60' can be made up in 1/8 either. Ck slip. Whatever a 7.65@92.8 comes to in 1/4 I believe I will be quicker than they come up with and I know I would have killed the 7.695 running by me in 1/8. I would put my next paycheck on that I will get to a 7.45-7.5@97 my next trip to crossville too. I bet it won't be a 12.5 qtr. as stated in an earlier post either. I came back with evidence, help me plan my next move please you guys have a ton of great info as shown in this thread.
 
  #43  
Old 09-24-2013 | 10:16 PM
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Stall or tires wont matter which is first, as either will soon require the other. Get a high stall converter and you'll get a better launch as it lets the engine wind up easier, but then that will break the tires loose easier and you'll need slicks.
Start with slicks and your present converter and it will hook up, but the converter will not allow the engine to wind up as quickly, so the stickier tires will cause somewhat of a bog and you'll be wanting higher stall soon.
So I'd probably save up and get both, or get one at a time and wait until you have both to go racing again!
 
  #44  
Old 09-25-2013 | 08:08 AM
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I told you before I think you needed a set of slicks/radials to really help you. I'd find a set of 26" tall tires and slap them on there, I don't think you need anything bigger, especially with the gears and converter you have in it right now
 
  #45  
Old 09-25-2013 | 10:35 AM
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Thanks guys. Those are the theories I'm using as well. Tire is biggest limitation now as I can't floor it till top of first or I spin. So since I can't afford both now I will get slicks mounted on my 3rd gen wheels and swap out at track,or if I can handle it wait till converter to go back. I feel there is .1 or so in traction. If I get a higher stall now I may as well not even try. Do you feel like going electric fans and water pump with motor for power steering is worth the dough, of course after tires and stall? I am currently running full accessory drive. I am thinking the 2-1/2 exhaust may be hurting me too. I am pretty sure I can get down to 7.3 or so without getting into the engine at all, except for the intake, performer rpm, which builder hated me for. Any and all ideas (no spray)welcome to get that last little bit. Interested in losing weight way off on what I thought after actually weighing. I subtracted all the weight I have removed from stated curb weight. Stated curb weight was base as a v6 with no options, so accessories should have been added to that weight not removed when taken off. Weight with 1/2 tank and me was 3656. About a 156 lb. diff. I would be happy now being that it is a legit street car I drive over 100 miles a week, but it's the nature of the beast to want more. Blessing, curse you decide..lol

Oh and you are right cheeks you both told me before about tires I remember, I just wasn't spinning with 2.41's or at least it was easier to not spin.
 

Last edited by Flextrainer; 09-25-2013 at 10:37 AM.
  #46  
Old 09-29-2013 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Gorn

Judging how much power you had based on out running something is not in any way shape or forum accurate. Was the person trying? Did the person know how to drive the car? I remember a post in the V6 forum a couple a years ago where the poster thought he outran an Audi. It was one of those 500+HP Audi’s. He swears he outran it in his 3500lbs 165HP V6. Ya he did

Dyno it and prove us wrong but you did ask for opinions. 500Hp with 9.5 compression without a super charger or Turbo on street gas? That would be pretty amazing. Low 400s would be more the norm. In fact anything over 420 and you should give whoever built it and tuned it a pat on the back.

I let him go first, you can tell bc he had a .1 rt I had .6. cutting .04 to .11 all night can show. He had cold air, cat back, and tune. Sounded great. Louder than me by far. I ran 10 mph and .9 faster. And YES HE WAS TRYING. Was horrible night. 1900' elevation, 65*, 95% humidity Crossville, tn. I-40 dragway. 3659lbs. fastest mph 94.5. Here is slip from that race. Horrible spin all night, so et down by .3. Been running 7.65's. More evidence for you.



sounds like a manual tranny here. spun first 60', let all the way off, chirped again when I jumped back on, and again when I caught second.


ran 1.9's all night 60' used to 1.80.
 

Last edited by Flextrainer; 10-30-2013 at 07:49 PM.
  #47  
Old 09-30-2013 | 09:57 AM
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I doubt you'll see much gain by removing accessories. I'd rather keep them and have the comfort and reliability of a mechanical water pump. Power steering will require you also change out the steering box, so not just a pump removal, and it doesn't take much power unless you're turning and you shouldn't be doing that in a drag race!
Depending on how much you're spinning, you may really pick up a lot on your ET! It doesn't sound like you're spinning horribly, but enough to have a marked improvement if you hook up with slicks. My old '71 Camaro picked up a full second plus when I took the street tires off and put good slicks on. It pretty much spun the tires for half the 1/4 mile when I started racing it in the 70's. My Falcon has traction issues now. It's a 4 speed, and I can't get it to hook up through 1st or 2nd if I'm past half throttle. I have old school piecrust slicks on it, and I need to get a pair of 10" rims with Ford pattern, so I can mount up my 11"-29.5"-15" Goodyear Eagles. They hook great, and should really improve my ET.
 
  #48  
Old 09-30-2013 | 10:28 AM
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Thanks. I was wondering how reliable electric pumps were. I just figured the pump and seven blade fan was pulling quiet a bit. I would rather have reliability than a tenth with this car. I think the track was just too cold and too humid to do any better. They were dragging the track about every third run, but you could just about see moisture on track. Lol yeah let's just hope I don't have to make any quick turns at track. I will have stall and slicks next year, but just wanted to try one more time this year. What gets me was the fact I ran 2-3 mph faster, but ran .3 slower, but that was just spin I guess. Maybe spin acted as stall idk. I know when my buddy went from 2k stall to 3200 he picked up 5mph. Oh if I didn't let off I would have spun half track too, but I let all the way off bc after a second or two they stop squalling and just go up, plus tires ain't cheap.
 

Last edited by Flextrainer; 09-30-2013 at 10:37 AM.
  #49  
Old 09-30-2013 | 06:00 PM
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At least if we're spinning we're probably not breaking drivetrain! My big fear is if I get the Falcon to really hook well, then I'll have to start spending big dollars for drivetrain improvements!
 
  #50  
Old 09-30-2013 | 07:41 PM
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Yeah. That's 100%. You got more than I do. Really considering getting another and going drag on this one, but gotta have something to get groceries quickly..lol maybe I should go ahead and do driveshaft and u-joints first or too. Realistically I have met my goal, but I'm bit. The goal was simply to be able to drive wherever I wanted and outrun the new Maro's and stangs. New goal: run 7 flat and hit 100. What is your best guess as to power needed to pick up 5 mph. I think I can get another 100-150lbs out. I have cut or removed nothing but a/c components. Race gas usually nets 1-2 then maybe 100 lbs out. Or do you think gaining mph usually happens with stall like my buddy? It makes sense bc you are leaving the line with more power right off. Now I start about 1500-2000 below where I really start to make big power. But like you said moot point till slicks so they will be in conjunction. Do you feel I'm being realistic at this point?. I do feel like I have several more areas I can help out. I still have 1-5/8 mid length headers and 2-1/2 exhaust. Also what about leaving water pump, but electric fans. That 7 blade weighs about 10-12 lbs and pulls a ton of air. Not big on idea of spray bc I think I can get there. I do know however that 100 hp doesn't net near as much et in the 7's as in the 9's. What would you do at this point? Remember I am just getting back into this after 10 year absence. Used to just throw spray to it and be done, now want full time power.
 


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