Ok,

I have a 350 block with standard size bores and just bought a 383 scat stroker kit......(will get the crank internally balanced when I'm done clearancing) I just need some direction to go as far as cams go and how big I can go without worrying about piston to valve clearance....


I'm looking at some comp cams:

230/230 .480/.480 2000-6000rpms

244/244 .501/.501 2500-6500rpms

and some BRODIX IK200 heads.....
64cc/straight plusg/200cc intake runners/ 2.02\1.6 valves\


any thoughts on this setup?.....any advice as far as building it?


any help would be great!



ryan
ryangtp@hotmail.com

 

How long are your rods? 383 stroker kits can either have the stock 5.7" rod or the 400 block 6" rod. If you use the 6" rod, you have to get a small base circle camshaft. As far as how big the cam you can get, as long as the block or the heads haven't been decked, you can go with a .6" lift. The bigger the displacement, the more duration an engine can handle. Are you building the motor for torque or high end power? The larger the cam the less torque you have on the low end. Also are you using a dual plane intake manifold or a single? How many CFMs is your carb going to be? Are the intake runners going to be port matched to the heads?

 

Are they flat top or dome pistons, What compression are the pistons? Deck height? I think I may be missunderstanding you on the internal balancing the crank will either be designed as an internal or external when you get it. The stock chevy 400 crank is externally balanced so if you would use one in a 350 you would need a 400 damper and flexplate. The stock chevy rods are 5.5xx" and are weak. Id be interested on the scat kit information is it a cast crank(ie 6500 rpm)?? alot of them are already balanced. We have run a .536 lift cam with 1.6 rockers(.572 lift) flat top pistons 9.010 deck clearance .035 head gasket 64 cc heads with 2.08 valves with out an issue. After getting your cam check the clearance to be sure. The cam company will give recommendations and to all your specs and wants Ive gotten quick responses from crane and lunetti(holly).

 

ok here we go.

it came with scat forged 5.7 rods....scat cast crank....speed pro hypereutectic flat-top pistons....rings and bearings........

real quick, here's the parts list.....should answer the "what do you have" questions! : )

-scat 383 stoker kit (10.3:1 compression)
-Brodix IK200 aluminum heads fully assembled(64cc comb. +200cc intake runners + 2.02/1.6 valves + .575 max lift)
-one of the cams listed above, unless ya'll talk me into something else
-edelbrock performer RPM intake
-Holley street avenger (either the 670 or 770 cfm can't remember) carb

I'm building the motor for torque and midrange.....cause with the bottom end I don't wanna be spinnin much above 6200-6500rpms

intake runners won't be matched to the heads, unless I get bored one day! : )

the deck height is stock....I havn't brought it to the machine shop yet....it'll be bored 30over....

it is an internal balance crank....not balanced though.....i think scats cranks like mine are either or if I can remember right!


thanks for the help!

 

Do you have the cam numbers I kind of like it, I want to run it through desktop dyno just to see what the hp ext would be. Id double check on that crank when I looked at the scat package I thought the crank was externally balanced.

 

comp cams: 230/230 .480/.480 2000-6000rpms pt number: CCA-12-212-2

comp cams: 244/244 .501/.501 2500-6500rpms pt number: CCA-12-213-3


so either of those would be decent right?.....I'm kinda liking the .480 lift one.....but my mopar buddy likes the .501 lift.....so I don't know.....



and now about the scat kit....I just got it in today.....on the outside of the box it says to put the motor together dry and mock up.....do your clearancing......and then it says to get it balanced......hhhhmmmm, I may just call/email scat and find out exatly what I need to do.....I bought the kit from northernautoparts.com

here's a link to the specific crank that i have.....(9000)....and it says, "The Only Profiled External and Internal Balanced Cast Crank."........so what's that mean? you can choose if you wanna externally balance it or internally balanced? but on this page (which I just looked at today) they want you to buy a new flexplate and balancer. they're like $50 a piece from this site....so it's not a big deal to spend another $100 when I got the kit for $540.......
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...uctModelId=962


here the link to the kit:
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=14967




so what do ya'lll think about the crank issue?.....I'm gonna email/call scat tomorrow ...

thanks for the time!

ryan

 

Blueday
If You're building for torque, keep the cam smaller. A 225ish intake with a 235ish exhaust duration. Split the cam so You have low end torque and top end doesn't suffer. Keep it around .500" Valve Lift or less. Get the intake matched to the heads. This is much more important than You realize. Make sure The Heads don't give You too much Compression. That's a killer on the street. Absolutely get it Rebalanced - Very Critical. Make sure the machine shop hones it with torque plates and uses the right finish for Your rings ( Honing instructions will be supplied with the rings ). Prefit the bearings for clearance - I've seen many of these come with too tight of clearance. Use the proper head gasket for Your heads. If You can afford it, run a hydraulic roller camshaft ( more power - less wear )
The package should make 425 hp and 475 torque easily. Don't overlook the exhaust system, 3" dual if it'll fit. For a carb, use at least 750 cfm. It would probably like a little more. Don't be cheap with headers. They're as important as the Carb/intake package. Hope I haven't missed anything, write back if I have.