http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294774852
6" rod kits.

 

Well around me, for a computer controlled system for boring it, hot tanking it, removing and installing cam bearings and freeze plugs, and line bore. It cost about $700

 

Do you still want 500 hp?

 

Yes. as close I as i can get

 

My guess for machine shop work would be around $1500 to $2000.00. Once you got the 4 bolt block you would get rid of the factory internals in general they will not reliably support 500 hp. The block would need cleaned, magnefluxed, sonic checked the block deck it bore it torqe plate honed, mains would need to be studded then line honed block clearancing, rods pistons fitted, rings fitted, crank balanced, oil system cleanup, oil pump clearance, clearances measured including piston to valve, push rods measured ect ect heck I might even be light on the cost I pull out the last bill when I get the chance. You will need to get a good set of heads rotating assembly, oil pump, intake, carb, distributor, headers ect ect Then you have to look at the car structure rear end transmission once hp goes up it is a multiplyer for everything else.

 

Well you can do the studding yourself, just screw them in put the part in and put a nut over it. Unless you bought a used block, you wouldn't need to go through the whole checking the block. If you get free floating wrist pins (I HIGHLY RECOMEND) then you can put your own pistons on your own rods. The 400 crank is externally balanced too. The block would need the pan rails to be clearanced for the larger counter weights. Oil system clean up? Get the block hot tanked and be done with it. If you have a dial indicator with a magnet mount, you can find the vavle to piston ratio yourself. A feeler gauge will let you set your own piston rings too.

 

I thought he was asking the cost for a machine shop to do the work.. You could do some of it your self and save some money if you are experienced or have someone experienced helping. There are alot of things professional engine builders do that someone who hasnt built any or has done stock rebuilds would be clueless to I have alot of respect for for the professionals. Remember you are not doing a stock rebuild you are building a 500 hp engine. Not having the block checked prior to building is a bad idea, some blocks exhibit core shift which makes them not a good canidate for a buildup, maging the block will show cracks not visable to the naked eye sonic testing tells if the block is thick enough in certion areas for machining believe it on not not all blocks are good canidates for a 500 hp engine. Oil system cleanup is checking the oil return area and cleaning then up to induse flow install screens or oil restrictors depending on cam choice. Aftermarket 3.75 stroke cranks came be internally or externally balanced or the macine shop can do it. The aftermarket 383 cranks are set for the 350 mains.

There are a few point in this post I whould like to comment on and get some input on
1)stock 400 crank is extenally balanced the 350 crank is interanaly balanced.
2) Do you need 6" rods to achieve 500 hp?
3) could someone explain how a 6" rod increases stroke over a 5.7" rod I dont get it
4)what truck block had the insainly strong crank

If you think you can machine and assemble a 500 hp engine for $700 I think your are under estimating. I just built a 406 that should be in the range of 550 to 560 hp at best.. the cost of the motor/carb will be $5500 that is with us doing alot of the work and that is using not the best but decent parts .

 

Very Well Said.... One thing you absolutely have to consider is you are investing alot of money into parts to make that kind of Horsepower, It would be an absolute waste if you grenaded the motor due to overheating, Loss of Oil Pressure etc due to poor inspection etc. There are so many " little things " that a novice would look over that can turn a 15,000$ engine build into a 15,000 pile of scorched pistons etc. Every aspect of the build needs meticulous attention to detail.

We currently sell 383 stroker motors out of our NASCAR engine Shop so needless to say, we have alot of information regarding the components that can be used, the benefits of them, where and how to save money etc. If you are interested in any advice, or possibly investing in a Lafferty Engine feel free to call us @ 704-795-5375.

Lafferty Performance
www.LaffertyPerformance.com
704-795-5375

 

Thanks I'll look it up!

Also, does anyone know about how much it would cost to get my Camaro modified to be able to use a 4bolt engine?

 

well first i would like to comment on Griff's last post; if its me i would take every 400 crank and throw them in the garbage. why you ask? as cheap as new stuff is now days it is very good insurance to just replace it, when GM built the 400 it wasn't with 500HP in mind it was with getting your grandma to the grocery store so compared to todays stuff the old 400 crank is junk. not to mention the factory 400 crank has a larger than life main journal making it very hard to fit into a 350 block (impossible)
do you need a 6inch rod to make 500HP ? no you do not, but the engine will live a lot longer with the longer rod,....its all about rod ANGLE. with a short rod you induce alot of side loading on the piston skirt as well as the cylinder wall creating a very bad scenario at high RPM's. it is along the same lines as to why long stroke motors do like RPM like a short stroke engine.
your third question a 6 inch rod does not increase stroke over the 5.7 rod the only thing that can change stroke is your crank!

now lets talk STROKER Motors. there are a couple of different,.... well theres an infinant of ways to build a stroker. lets address the first and foremost problem,...."i want to save money so i will do it myself"--- well that statement is usually followed up with "oh man,...how bad is it hurt?"
sometimes it is best to just spend the money to make sure it is done right. i've seen in an attemp to save money a guy who buys a stroker carnk over here for a good deal, then buys the rods over there for a better deal, and to top it off he buys the pistons at such a deal it blows his first two deals away,........but then he finds out that these seperate components will not work together or when he puts it together he puts a 1/16 ring on a piston designed for a 5/64 ring.
there are a lot of variables that can end up costing a lot of money not to mention heartache in the attempt to build a hot rod.

when a guys tells me that he wants 500 hp, i wil usually ask what he will be using the car for? in a world of numbers i've seen alot of "500 hp" cars get stomped by 300 real hp. 500 sounds cool but in practicality if your building a street ride on a budget 400 hp is way cheaper than 500.

ANDROSS -- its hard to answer your question with out asking some details,... but i'll try

if you are goingt to take your factory 2 bolt block, you can simply buy the new main caps (after market),... i think we sell all five caps for around (billet) $400. well forget that ,.....thats too much so our option is to convert your center 3 caps to 4 bolts our center three cap kit go's for about $200 (billet NASCAR) and $150 (billet better choice).

now there are some 2 bolt blocks that are good candidates for becoming 4 bolts and some that should just stay the way that they are ,...if you are interested in seeing the difference we'll put pitures up with explainations on our website,...soon .

now by the time you spend good money on caps now you must have your block line bored and honed, this could cost in the upwards of $400 .
depending on the use of this car- street / strip, strip only, trailer queen, or what ever you could go with the ultra simple billet straps on your 2 bolt block which would require modest machining on your caps and the aplication of billet straps to strengthen,... you could be out the door for about $250-$300 and that would NOT require line boring the block.