Inteermittent no start!
#1
08-21-2008, 05:41 PM
Inteermittent no start!
It seems when my car gets hott it will not crank! This does not always happen but it has happen more often here lately. I have a new alternator <3 wire set up> new voltage regulator and new battery. By the way I had alternator ck't last week and it was only putting out 10 V so replaced under warranty @ Advance Auto. At the same time I just went ahead and bought a new external V reg. So last week I figured theres the problem! 
Drive the car again to day get back in carand no start! here we go again. Get it jumped off, drive to a mechanic and he puts meter on battery and it shows like 12.5V running and then proceds to tell me I need a bigger batt. 550 CCA and I can try to retard the timing saying the motor may be too "tight" after getting heated up. OK well go home turn it off and no recrank. I the turn the DIST counter clock wise maybe 3mm nothing. So I take battery to get ck't its only 5 months old and guy says its good so I trade it on a 850 CCA battery stick it in and car fires up drive it around and get it hott and it recranks . I ck voltage running I get 14.0 V and turned off 13.0 V. Could it be possible batt is problem ? Any other ideas guys? Car is basically a 350 with Lunati 480 Cam and 750 dbl pumper nothing radical!
Drive the car again to day get back in carand no start! here we go again. Get it jumped off, drive to a mechanic and he puts meter on battery and it shows like 12.5V running and then proceds to tell me I need a bigger batt. 550 CCA and I can try to retard the timing saying the motor may be too "tight" after getting heated up. OK well go home turn it off and no recrank. I the turn the DIST counter clock wise maybe 3mm nothing. So I take battery to get ck't its only 5 months old and guy says its good so I trade it on a 850 CCA battery stick it in and car fires up drive it around and get it hott and it recranks . I ck voltage running I get 14.0 V and turned off 13.0 V. Could it be possible batt is problem ? Any other ideas guys? Car is basically a 350 with Lunati 480 Cam and 750 dbl pumper nothing radical!
#2
08-22-2008, 12:22 AM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Posts: 18,306
RE: Inteermittent no start!
Sounds like what you have is the dreaded GM starter "heat soak" problem.
The starter, and possibly the wires to it, are getting hot and causing the starter solenoid to not work.
This is more common to occur on an engine with headers, but can still happen with regular exhaust.
The problem could be:
a) The starter solenoid is getting too hot and is binding. Some cheap (China) replacement starters/solenoids can have a plastic lined bore which could bind if it gets hot. You want to have the good kind (AC Delco for instance) that has a stainless steel bore.
b) if the wires are getting too hot, they won't carry as much amperage through them.
c) both a & b
Ways to fix:
1) Put an aluminum heat shield above the starter to isolate it and the wires from the exhaust and engine heat. Aluminum is better because it dissipates heat faster than steel.
2) Install a remote starter solenoid kit (available from Summit) on the firewall or inner fender.
3) Buy a better starter, either stock style or a mini hi-torque (more better).
If you want to test your current starter, the next time you take the car out, strap a flexible ice pack onto the solenoid. If it restarts where normally it wouldn't have, you'll know it's the starter.
The starter, and possibly the wires to it, are getting hot and causing the starter solenoid to not work.
This is more common to occur on an engine with headers, but can still happen with regular exhaust.
The problem could be:
a) The starter solenoid is getting too hot and is binding. Some cheap (China) replacement starters/solenoids can have a plastic lined bore which could bind if it gets hot. You want to have the good kind (AC Delco for instance) that has a stainless steel bore.
b) if the wires are getting too hot, they won't carry as much amperage through them.
c) both a & b
Ways to fix:
1) Put an aluminum heat shield above the starter to isolate it and the wires from the exhaust and engine heat. Aluminum is better because it dissipates heat faster than steel.
2) Install a remote starter solenoid kit (available from Summit) on the firewall or inner fender.
3) Buy a better starter, either stock style or a mini hi-torque (more better).
If you want to test your current starter, the next time you take the car out, strap a flexible ice pack onto the solenoid. If it restarts where normally it wouldn't have, you'll know it's the starter.
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