Kick-Down Trouble
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Kick-Down Trouble
Folks:
Recently purchased a 1969 Camaro with a 350-300hp, backed by a turbo 350. The previous owner said the tranny was rebuilt about 5 years ago(5kmiles), and had a shift kit installed.
The problem is that the kick-down does not work, regardless of how fast, what gear it's in, or how far the throttle is depressed, the tranny doesn't kick down.
The kick-down cable is connected to the throttle o the carb, and connected to the tranny, but I don't know where to begin in troubleshooting this.
Is it an external adjustment, or something bigger? Any suggestions on where to start looking?
Thanks in advance,
Rob
Recently purchased a 1969 Camaro with a 350-300hp, backed by a turbo 350. The previous owner said the tranny was rebuilt about 5 years ago(5kmiles), and had a shift kit installed.
The problem is that the kick-down does not work, regardless of how fast, what gear it's in, or how far the throttle is depressed, the tranny doesn't kick down.
The kick-down cable is connected to the throttle o the carb, and connected to the tranny, but I don't know where to begin in troubleshooting this.
Is it an external adjustment, or something bigger? Any suggestions on where to start looking?
Thanks in advance,
Rob
Last edited by f1rob; Aug 5, 2020 at 11:35 PM.
Thread Starter
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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 7
After I posted, I saw a similar question was posted, and a detailed reply to that one from Everett2390. If I get some time this weekend, I'll try to male the adjustment and see if that makes a difference.
Won't cost me anything, before I decide to pull the trans.....
Cheers,
Rob
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,595
From: Va. Beach, VA
Good you found the instructions I wrote. First item I would check is disconnect the kickdown cable from carb linkage and manually pull cable forward while holding the casing, or leave casing in its bracket, and 'feel' any resistance in the last 1/4 inch of pull.
If resistance is felt, adjust IAW instructions I wrote.
If no resistance, then you might have to drop pan in seeing if cable is connected at valve body and linkage itself moves the valve.
If all goes well, then WOT upshifts should happen if governor is working.
If resistance is felt, adjust IAW instructions I wrote.
If no resistance, then you might have to drop pan in seeing if cable is connected at valve body and linkage itself moves the valve.
If all goes well, then WOT upshifts should happen if governor is working.
Thread Starter
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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 7
Good you found the instructions I wrote. First item I would check is disconnect the kickdown cable from carb linkage and manually pull cable forward while holding the casing, or leave casing in its bracket, and 'feel' any resistance in the last 1/4 inch of pull.
If resistance is felt, adjust IAW instructions I wrote.
If no resistance, then you might have to drop pan in seeing if cable is connected at valve body and linkage itself moves the valve.
If all goes well, then WOT upshifts should happen if governor is working.
If resistance is felt, adjust IAW instructions I wrote.
If no resistance, then you might have to drop pan in seeing if cable is connected at valve body and linkage itself moves the valve.
If all goes well, then WOT upshifts should happen if governor is working.
I checked, and the adjustment was off. When I disconnected the cable.from the throttle linkage of the carb, I could feel resistance at the last 1/4" of travel. At WOT, the ball-stud on the throttle linkage would not pull the cable that last 1/4". I made the adjustment, however, couldn't take it for a drive tonight.
I'll report back when I get it out in the next couple of days.
Cheers,
Rob
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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 7
Hi Everett#2390:
I checked, and the adjustment was off. When I disconnected the cable.from the throttle linkage of the carb, I could feel resistance at the last 1/4" of travel. At WOT, the ball-stud on the throttle linkage would not pull the cable that last 1/4". I made the adjustment, however, couldn't take it for a drive tonight.
I'll report back when I get it out in the next couple of days.
Cheers,
Rob
I checked, and the adjustment was off. When I disconnected the cable.from the throttle linkage of the carb, I could feel resistance at the last 1/4" of travel. At WOT, the ball-stud on the throttle linkage would not pull the cable that last 1/4". I made the adjustment, however, couldn't take it for a drive tonight.
I'll report back when I get it out in the next couple of days.
Cheers,
Rob
As mentioned in the last post, I adjusted the cable as described by Everett#2390 above, but when I took it for a ride, no joy. Kick-down was still not working.
What is the suggestion now?
Rob
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Just a FYI many shift kits crank up the line pressure to the point where the kick down will not work. They assume if you are building a high performance car you will shift it yourself. The next step is a full manual valve body. I
f this a weaker shift kit then your detente valve could be stuck. This can be unstuck without pulling the trans but may be worth it to take it to a trans guy since I assume you do not have the shift kit instruction.
And yes I know this is controlled by governor pressure but line pressure is the base for governor pressure.
f this a weaker shift kit then your detente valve could be stuck. This can be unstuck without pulling the trans but may be worth it to take it to a trans guy since I assume you do not have the shift kit instruction.
And yes I know this is controlled by governor pressure but line pressure is the base for governor pressure.
Last edited by Gorn; Aug 6, 2020 at 11:24 AM.
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