Replacing 1969 leaf springs

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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 11:21 AM
  #1  
joetunick's Avatar
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Default Replacing 1969 leaf springs

We're about to replace the leaf springs in my father-in-law's '69 Camaro. For the life of me I cannot figure a way to remove them without removing the gas tank. All of google searches simply say "Remove rear shackle bolts and remove leaf spring". There is NO WAY there is any room to get either the top or the bottom bolt out: on one side there is the tank, on the other is the inner fender. I have no problem removing the gas tank but no one has mentioned this in their process. In fact, some pictures show the tank in place as they remove the spring. Am I missing something?

Thanks!
 
Old Apr 10, 2014 | 05:17 AM
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First, soak all hardware with PB Blaster.
You can remove the spring without removing the tank.
The idea is remove the shackle bolt nuts, then disconnect the front spring box from the floor, disconnect from the rear axle, then slide off the spring with the attached shackle to the spring.

If you desire, on assembly, you can install the top bolt with the head towards the outside of the body and the bottom bolt has room for install from the tank.

Use antiseize on the threads and silicone grease on the bushings.
Tighten the shackle bolts once the weight of the Camaro is on the springs.
Tightened spring pad bolts again a week later after driving.
 
Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:42 AM
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I see. And I also see the source of the problem that we have. The replacement bolts that came from Eaton are just under 5" in length. The bolts in our springs are almost 6"! The last person to do this job must have used the incorrect bolt. The top bolt threads extend to within 1/8" of the tank. I can access the nut. I am worried that the bolt will be rusted into the spring bushing then I won't be able to move the bolt laterally. In that case the tank comes out and in comes the sawzall or other weapons of bolt destruction.

Thank you for your help!

Originally Posted by Everett#2390
First, soak all hardware with PB Blaster.
You can remove the spring without removing the tank.
The idea is remove the shackle bolt nuts, then disconnect the front spring box from the floor, disconnect from the rear axle, then slide off the spring with the attached shackle to the spring.

If you desire, on assembly, you can install the top bolt with the head towards the outside of the body and the bottom bolt has room for install from the tank.

Use antiseize on the threads and silicone grease on the bushings.
Tighten the shackle bolts once the weight of the Camaro is on the springs.
Tightened spring pad bolts again a week later after driving.
 
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 03:47 AM
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You're welcome.
Generally, new bushings are used and I can see why the longer bolts as new bushings, the new width is wider than the original bushings and 5 inch bolt doesn't get it.


Good luck, go slow and be careful.
 
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by joetunick
In that case the tank comes out and in comes the sawzall or other weapons of bolt destruction.
Nope, you come up from the bottom with a long blade sawzall to cut the upper bolts between the shackle and frame, start on the side nearest the tank first. You might have to cut on both sides of each spring, if the bolt is locked to the bushing collar. The tank, which is off to the side, isn't in the way of the sawzall access, and doesn't need to be dropped.
 

Last edited by Camaro 69; Apr 11, 2014 at 08:24 AM.
Old Apr 12, 2014 | 09:25 AM
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If you sawzall the inside upper bolt first, then use a pry bar to pry the bolt out as much as possible before cutting the outside. This will leave a stub that you can get hold of with visegrips to pull it. If you cut the bolt flush on both sides it may be nearly impossible to remove the remainder!
 
Old Apr 12, 2014 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
If you sawzall the inside upper bolt first, then use a pry bar to pry the bolt out as much as possible before cutting the outside. This will leave a stub that you can get hold of with visegrips to pull it. If you cut the bolt flush on both sides it may be nearly impossible to remove the remainder!
If after cutting the inner end off and the bolt will pry/slide out, he won't have to cut the outer end. Cutting off both ends would only be a last ditch effort if the bolt doesn't want to budge, to gain access for penetrating oil, heat, and/or beating it with a drift.
 

Last edited by Camaro 69; Apr 12, 2014 at 10:00 AM.
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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Many thanks for all of the good advice. Hopefully next weekend we'll do this. I'll report back.

Joe
 
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