Your old throwout bearing might not have been put on the fork the right way, which could explain how it broke.
Does your distributor have an adjustable lock collar, with an allen set screw? Looks like it might be that style, but it's hard to tell.

 

The throwout bearing in the picture is the one that came with the clutch kit. I can already say that it was cracked because the guy that was working on it had the clutch fork in backwards (there wasn't a pivot ball), and then the fork was rammed against the firewall. You may be right about the lock collar, I'll take a look when I get home.

 

Problem 1 fixed, rotated the gear 180 degrees and it seated correctly


New Hurst shifting linkage set was installed

Still need to clean up the shifter assembly.

Clutch fork and pivot are installed..


Poly bushing for the trans installed.


Swapped out the drivers side engine mount, need to cut off the passenger side. I can already see what they did, and it doesn't look good. Notice the hole poking out from the bottom.


A set of Lokar Midnight clutch/brake covers, and full accelerator assembly are on the way. Along with a Summit Protorque Starter. Should be in tomorrow. Hopefully I can get the mount installed, and get the engine back in with the starter and gas pedal this weekend.

 

I was finally able to grind off the welds holding on the old frame mounts. Underneath I can see that someone re-drilled the mounting holes to the left just slightly. Perhaps to rotate the engine more to one side. So rather than buying the right mounts they permanently modified the sub-frame. Sorry for the blurry pic...


Lokar pedals came in, unfortunately I didn't realize that the ' XBAG-6102' part # only has one pedal that can be used for brake or clutch, not that they come with both.


Starter is in, just need to check it for gear mesh gap


I took the shifter apart to clean it up and check it out. Turns out that the shims are fairly worn, and the whole shifter needs a rebuild. Not to mention the chrome on the shift rod is coming off. Rather than buying a rebuild kit I just ordered a completely new shifter. I'm thinking I'll put this on ebay see what I get for it.


Lastly after doing some reading I found out that the small block and big block use different rods and mount for the shifter. I had ordered a E367 kit from classic (which is for a SB) instead of the E375 for a big block. So $115 wasted on the wrong kit. I ordered the correct linkage, should be in this week. If anyone wants to buy the SB kit PM me.

 

New shifter came in already. Here is the difference between a stock 3138 and a new repo.

 

Had a chance to crank over the engine a couple of times today. I need to adjust the idle and timing. Snapped a video of it, can't wait till I get the water pump and radiator hooked up. And I can run it for longer than a couple seconds.

http://s763.photobucket.com/albums/xx271/jsmage/?action=view¤t=engine_start.mp4

 

Wow nice build.....everything is so clean. lololol....Mines all dusty now. You've done some really nice work.

 

Well progress has slowed down a bit. Been working on the CTS-V and vacation coming up. I was able to get all the brake lines figured out.. I had to cut and re-flange my rear lines to accommodate the disc brakes. I cut the hole for the shifter. I'm having a problem with it sticking in reverse because of the linkage. I think I just need some adjustments.


Got all the petals in, and wired up the throttle line.


I'm trying to fab up my own fan mounts for the radiator. I think what I have will work but concerned the bolts may back out, or rub against the radiator causing a hole. May order the be-cool kit but $65 for some bent aluminum is pretty steep when you consider it was only $6 at most for the aluminum.

 

Hopefully I can find a nice project car to rebuild. I like your thread. Nice.

 

Very nice! Keep up the good work.