I'll be watching to see if that distributor fits. I want to do the same thing.

I'm going to have trouble too, hanging my new clutch and brake pedals. My car was originally an auto and instead of hanging a new clutch and brake pedal assembly, they only hung the clutch and cut the left half of the brake pedal off so they could hang the clutch. I've never seen anything like it.

Good luck.

 

Got the serpentine belt put on just to make sure it would fit and all the parts were there -


Ran into some clearance issues with the crack pulley clearing the frame -


I can't tilt the engine further back or the distributor will hit the firewall -


I had a clearance issue with my previous oil pan hitting the frame, thinking it was the frame mounts I bought some BBC 69 mounts 3950113/3950114 but they were actually smaller so I ended up buying a stock oil pan that cleared it -


Now I'm thinking I may have the wrong motor mounts, I hear the BB 69 engine mounts are much taller. This may allow me to put my big pan back on and get everything to fit. Looks like I'll need a new cross-member too.

Anyone know where the water heater return is suppose to go if there is only one bung on the water pump and it goes to the bypass for the intake manifold -



Tried to tackle the brakes, the SSBC kit that I got seems fine but the lines that I ordered to go to the stock distribution box seems to be the wrong ones. I can't get any of the fitting to line up, and they are the wrong sizes, looks like I need to get "drum" lines which were original on the car -


Also got a set of power steering lines, I'll need to cut off the high pressure line and put a fitting that will work with this power steering pump -



Throttle bracket came in, looks like it will work fine -


Lastly I got the part number off this clutch fork asides the fact that it was turned around backward, its 14066235 which means its for a 73-81 Camaro. I ordered a new 3892632 fork and a new clutch fork ball 3729000.


It's coming along nicely though -

 

If I am not mistaken you need a different proportioning valve for your brakes if you went from drum/drum to disc/drum. That is why your lines dont fit. If you use a drum/drum valve when you have front disc brake it will not flow enough fluid to the calipers and you will be lacking front braking power. As for the heater lines I would say you could plug off the front hole on the intake and use the water pump for one of your heater hoses, not sure why you would want a bypass hose in there anyway. I had the same problem with my motor mounts and I ended up putting a hardened washer under the mount to raise it up slightly, npt sure if it was the best way but it worked for me.

 

Dude, that engine looks amazing! I might have to wait a year or two to get one. The paint looks beautiful too. Keep up the good work.

K

 

Thanks Odin.

JustinA - I heard you want some flow between intake mani to pump in case the thermostat froze and to promote even engine warm-up.

Does the heater core act as a bypass if it's hooked up?

I ordered some solid Moroso 62510 motor mounts from summit and they are already here. Using the new (stock) BBC frame mounts and the solid motor mounts it's looks like it will be enough to push the engine up where I need it.

 

You don't want to cork off your bypass hose, that helps the system flow coolant through the heads and block more evenly. The small block has the bypass in the front of the block, an extra hole where the water pump bolts on. The big block doesn't have that extra water pump hole, it has "the hose". As far as the heater core, no it doesn't act as a bypass. If you want to run heat, you'll want to get the right water pump with the extra fitting, or get your pump drilled and tapped.
Too bad you didn't say anything about solid motor mounts, I have a pair (of mounts) collecting dust. I had solids on my car, but changed over to poly mounts which gave me less vibration.
Lemme know how you like it!

 

Yeah, that's what I've heard. I may just get a new water pump with two fittings, plus I need to get some shorter water pump bolts as the ones I had were way to long and went to deep into the block.

I got the mounts kind of temporary because they were cheap and I am almost certain they will work. "Camaro 69" what poly mounts did you use?

 

good looking car starting to come out from hidding. im subscribing to this will keep an eye out for the outcome.

 

I used the Energy Suspension mounts. As far as feel, I'd put them between stock rubber and solid. The poly mounts are nice, as the upper and lower metal portions are interlocked within the molding. They can't pull apart like the sandwiched rubber ones can.

 

Made some progress recently. I was able to purchase a reverse flow dual outlet water pump. So now I'll be able to supply coolant through the bypass, and to the heater coil. A friend let me borrow his engine hoist and I pulled the engine out to change out the motor mounts and clutch fork. Here is a view of the one I pulled out and the one going in...


The old fork was turned around backwards and left these scratches in the paint.


In addition to scratching up the paint apparently it broke the throw out bearing.


This was all thanks to the the body guy that worked on it in Florida. At this point I'm not sure what I should use for a throw out bearing, this was the one that came with the Hays Street/Strip cltuch kit. Description says it is a 'Standard' one.

I also tried to fit my distributor fully into the block. For some reason it doesn't seem like it's seating correctly. Here is a picture ..

There is a felt pad with about a 1/8" gap from the upper seating bevel. I have tried rotating it to ensure that it is locked into the oil pump. Has anyone else had this problem?

My next hurdle is to cut this frame mount off..

I'm not sure what to expect once I get it off.