Hello great helpers,
Mine is a 67 rs 396 t5. Sometimes after a drive when attempting to start it will crank but not start. I have found that if I jump the coil with battery voltage it will start. I have attached a photo of the coil. And I have also made sure that the yellow wire from the starter is in place.
I have considered running a helper circuit into the inside with a momentary switch to deliver do the same as my jumper - as a last resort.
Could it be the coil? If so which coil do you suggest? The distributor is a Mallory Unilite.
Thanks!

 

Do you still have points?

Have you tested the battery, battery cables?

Low voltage can be a sign of a cell issue in the battery or resistance built up in the cables. Your car would have come with a voltage restriction down to about 9 volts to the coil. The starter should be sending 12 volts to the coil while you are cranking for quick startups. If you leave it at 12v and you points you will fry them.

Your Holley coil should have about twice the voltage a stock coil would have had.

 

no points. the distributor is a Mallory Unilite.
No ballast resistor
I will check the cables etc that you suggest
Thanks,
Scott

 

A big block puts out a lot of heat,your starter might be hot and sucking the power away from the system struggling to turn the motor over when it's a hot engine .
Do you have headers on the car? Common issue is heat sink in the starter with a big block 1st gen and headers.

 

It is a bb and does have headers. I could wrap them. Thanks.

 

OP, assuming your battery, and cable connections, are good (read get battery load tested) than as noted stock starter and headers if you have them can be a tough combo due to heat exposure to the starter.

If this is the case or your starter is just going bad than look into a gear reduction type. Smaller and considerably more cranking power than conventional starter.

I got my REMY on Rockauto for around $70

can't attach a PDF but part # for the 168 tooth with no R terminal is 96206 and with R terminal is RS41117

 

Thank you! I'm working


on that today!

 

During the start, when the IGN wire is supposed to provide the 12 volts to the coil is all well and good, until the battery voltage drops down
If the battery is weak, or the wire from the starter to the distributor has too much resistance, the coil will only have the reduced voltage
The jumper wire is providing the best path temporarily
Did the same thing on my 1990 Corvette on the start circuit (put a jumper wire on there so I could make the beast start when it was real hot)
Good luck
Put a DVOM on that coil and see what the actual voltage is when cranking
Do the same with the battery and see how low the voltage goes when cranking

 

Quick report and question. I ended up using the inline diode to deliver voltage to the coil during cranking from the new mini starter. The ignition is a Mallory pointless kit with a ballast resistor. During cranking the voltage at the coil is 5.9 volts. The car starts right up. Is that voltage ok? Could the BR be removed?
Thanks!

 

Check your meter?
Well, it should be 9 volts maybe
What does the Mallory instructions say for voltage requirement?
It should not start well at 5.9 volts
See what it is with the resistor removed
If anywhere near 12, that is too much
Double check your meter