No pulse on coil. Stumped.

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Old 10-23-2017, 11:51 AM
zdadzdad's Avatar
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Default No pulse on coil. Stumped.

1967 Camaro RS 327. Finishing a full restoration. Everything is new. Points ignition. No spark. 12v at the coil and distributer but when cranking over there is no pulse at the coil just steady voltage. Changed everything more than twice. Checked diagram more than twice. Thought you guys might be able to help. Any advice? What am I missing? Thank you
 
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Old 10-23-2017, 04:02 PM
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Add yellow wire from solenoid R terminal to coil + terminal.
Sixty-seven ign switches do not have ign power in START position.
 
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:13 PM
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Lets back up, do you understand how the system works? You should have power to the coil, it should only be 12 volts while the starter is engaged. There should be a resistor setup that with the key on you should get under 12 volts. This voltage is not suppose to pulse on it own. It powers the primary Positive side of the coil. The distributer grounds the primary negative side of the coil. This is a wave pattern on and off. It can really only be read with a scope or a dwell meter.

You can see a pulse as a slight voltage drop and the coil is charges. Because of the coil and the condenser this will be a flicker at best. Now if you want to see a test light pulse disconnect the power to the coil. Run your test light from the positive battery post to the wire going to the negative side of the coil. Since ground is turning on and off you should get a strong pulse. If you are not getting a strong pulse the something is up with the distributer.

If you do not have access to a dwell meter you might as when track one down. If you are running points it the best way to set them.

If the Dwell meter is reading good then the coil is probably the issue. Assuming you tested spark from the coil wire itself.

DO NOT turn on power to an ignition system with the engine is not running. You will kill the points, If you are testing this system with the key on and engine not running you already fried the points.
 

Last edited by Gorn; 10-24-2017 at 09:40 AM.
  #4  
Old 10-25-2017, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Gorn
Lets back up, do you understand how the system works? You should have power to the coil, it should only be 12 volts while the starter is engaged. There should be a resistor setup that with the key on you should get under 12 volts. This voltage is not suppose to pulse on it own. It powers the primary Positive side of the coil. The distributer grounds the primary negative side of the coil. This is a wave pattern on and off. It can really only be read with a scope or a dwell meter.

You can see a pulse as a slight voltage drop and the coil is charges. Because of the coil and the condenser this will be a flicker at best. Now if you want to see a test light pulse disconnect the power to the coil. Run your test light from the positive battery post to the wire going to the negative side of the coil. Since ground is turning on and off you should get a strong pulse. If you are not getting a strong pulse the something is up with the distributer.

If you do not have access to a dwell meter you might as when track one down. If you are running points it the best way to set them.

If the Dwell meter is reading good then the coil is probably the issue. Assuming you tested spark from the coil wire itself.

DO NOT turn on power to an ignition system with the engine is not running. You will kill the points, If you are testing this system with the key on and engine not running you already fried the points.
Thank you so much gentleman! Turned out to be the distributor feed wire we chafed and grounding. I really appreciate you taking your time to respond. I hope to give back to this group as often as I can. Thanks again!
 
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