OK, my body shop shipped me this picture and said "guaranteed to please":

Here is how he used it in my case:


Hope he’s right as that’s my ’68 a while back. Note he also had to weld in new seat bases. BTW, I'm new to this posting business but not to Camaros, or life for that matter, as I find myself inexplicably getting old. How did that happen??? Anyway, maybe I should transfer my attention to the new projects area and provide a brief recap of the journey to date. I've sorta done that in the 1st gen pictures sticky, which you can find if you look at my very limited series of posts there.

 

Not bad.. looked it up and seems to be used on other forums, similar restorations and other cars/trucks. This helps a lot. Now I just need to get materials, prep and on my way. I've got so many questions on process and interest in how others did there work. Been obsessed with this since January and I have such nit-picky questions. One step at a time. Thank you

Did not realize your car was already done... Looks back at your posts and nice work and like the color. That 396 must be a beast. I got a piddly 327 / 210hp.

 

Sorry, I didn't ask my body guy about gutters, but maybe the manufacturer has comment.


No, not done!!! It should regain its front subframe and rear end and become a roller again very soon. Then it gets painted, and the real work begins. I did start a "Projects" thread about 'RIcky Camaro'.

 

Got confused, thought the pic in your previous posts was the completed project....
The upper and lower cowl looks in great condition, firewall and lower window too. I did notice your package tray has cutouts for speakers. It that original or did you (someone) cut them out?
My wife has decided to call my car 'The Albatross'. I guess its fitting for the huge undertaking of a complete frame up restore. Good luck and keep posting, I look forward to see your progress.

Let me know on the roof rail... still interested if the product is the same or something else.

 

Well, you wouldn't believe how much work that firewall has received. Here is a for instance of where they started:


And both front and rear window frames were very rusted out, and much was rebuilt a piece at a time, and thank goodness for his welding and metal-working skills. He's been doing this for a lot of years, and I'm very lucky he's on this project.
I'll check with him on the gutters, but what exactly is wrong with them? Just rust-through in spots?

 

Wow... lots of rust... your welder does great work. I would have never noticed. You have put a lot of work in to this car.
As for the gutters, they are fine. I removed all the old seal, but the factory used something different than the standard seam sealer. It was more of a light brown putty and was very difficult to remove. Wanted to know if the product used to seal the roof gutters is different or could I use the same seam sealer all around the car.

 

Yeah, the firewall was a bear. He ended up cutting the mustache completely out and building a new one. That is real metal-working skills demonstrated! I hope nobody was speared by whatever put that hole through the firewall. Couldn't have been a happy wreck. That was not the only hole, just the worst. Regarding the gutter seal, I'll ask him what he's using on mine. Personally I'm not real worried since, even though I seem to live in one of the rain capitals of the world, I'll mostly stay out of it, and always stay garaged when not traveling. Plus I will be using Topcoat F11 on the car. Stay tuned.

 

So, an answer to your final question for this go-round. Here's a quote directly from my body guy: As far as the gutters go, cleaning the area and using quad caulking which is an oil base mixture that you have to used mineral spirits to even get it off your fingers is preferred so you’re not fixing it every six months.

I use the Quad brand already, so am familiar with it. I use it on the Hardiplank concrete siding on my house to seal the seams between plank ends. That is, of course, the Home Depot/Lowes version of Quad. I use a different Quad formula, called HM270 on the roof of my travel trailer, where the fiberglass front cap marries to the structural aluminum body. HM270 is specifically formulated for primed steel. While I use a white version, you would probably want it in clear. Hope that helps.