Even in the START position, you should read battery voltage.
If key is in IGN, and no power is drawn, engine not running, you should measure battery voltage on both coil posts.
If OE resistive wire is used for supply, and after running for some time, current is drawn, resistive wire heats up, and reduces battery voltage, generally to 6-8 volts, +/- a volt.
If voltage is still battery voltage at coil +, then one can rule out resistive wire is being used, check visually IGN spade at fuse panel to see if this spade is being used.
Sixty-eight ign switches should have ign voltage in START position, and is aided by an OE yellow wire from solenoid R terminal to coil + post.
Testing ign switch in START position would require disconnecting the battery and hold ign sw in START position and measure resistance from Aalt BATT stud to coil + terminal. Should be less than an ohm. If OE resistive wire is used, resistance measured would read 1.8-2 ohms.

 

That's alright, no confusion. The "test" I meant was checking for 12 volts in the run position. I'd pretty much guarantee your engine is going to start once you hot-wire the coil. By the way, all it takes is that wire and a screwdriver (to jump the starter solenoid) to drive away with your car. Keep that in mind if you ever take your car places where it's left unwatched, and it doesn't have any type of security. Gone in less than 60 seconds!
Anyway, it would be easiest to test the switch once you remove it from the dash. Ground the switch. With the plug removed, the prongs on the base of the switch will be marked as to what's what. You can temporarily hook power up to the "BAT" stud, then with a meter, probe around on the other studs putting the switch in the corresponding position, and see what you get. You can then decide if you want to just replace the switch, or tear into it. Me, I like to explore, and have been able to fix burned switches, solenoids, etc.

 

Okay… I'm surprised at the answer but, it was the battery! Tried jumping a wire from the battery to coil and had the same result. Then tried jumping a wire from another battery to the coil and it started. I took the battery back to AutoZone and they replaced it - now all is fine. Thanks so much for everyone's help, I definitely learn a lot about ignition on this post.

 

No way can it be the battery, it's one of the things we listed, the battery is way too easy of a fix......LOL

Makes you feel good to hear it run again, doesn't it?

Have fun.

 

Definitely great to hear it run! My kids came running into the garage when they heard it rumble the house and were just as excited. I was amazed it was the battery- it's a year old and has been on a battery tender since day 1!

Now I have to play with the vacuum stuff mentioned above and sort that out. Just to confirm, is it the 2 lines circled in red below that I need to swap?

 

Yeap, the small diameter tubing, coming off the side of the metering plate, needs to go to the distributor and the hose coming from the base plate goes to the tranny.

 

I'll be posting soon about the extremely hard cranking of my 67. Seems like there are a lot more problems than there should be.
BUT, they are reasonably easy to diagnose and fix.