Well my 67 came in on the hook today. No spark. I am going to replace the module in the old unilite that failed a few years ago.
Please let me know how much voltage should be at the coil. If I should use a ballast resistor. The coil is also a unilte.
I confirmed no spark before calling AAA.
Thanks,
Scott

 

The resistance wire your car had stock was there to protect the points. It kept them from burning. I have never heard of any modern ignition system with a module needing anything other the the line voltage. 12.6 +/- .5v. Just remember no points, no resister

 

Those old round ignition coils run on 9 volts
12 to start, 9 to run

 

Thank you both. The voltage while running at most locations is 14 or so with the alternator spinning. Is this too high or ok?

 

Actually, unlike all other "module", aka HEI, distributors the Unilite does require a resistor wire or ballast resistor to the coil

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/maa-unilitedist.pdf

Not doing so with the Unilite will burn it up. Conversely running a resistor wire (8-9vdc) will burn up other HEI/Module distributors

You also want to match coil specific to the type/brand of HEI dizzy you have

OP, like any other part on any car, stuff fails. If you are repairing the Unilite, get a new coil for it also. A stock points distributor with a Pertronix unit or the whole small cap Pertronix distributor is another option but you will need to eliminate the resistor wire to coil (white cloth covered one) and run a #10 braided copper wire from IGN tap on fuse block to coil. Most people just tape the resistance wire back into the loom.

 

You can play with coils and voltage
I had a Ford E core coil (40kv) on my old 69 Z28 for a while
Ran that coil at12volts
Swapped back to points after several unilite module failures on the freeway
One Highway patrolman said I needed a tow truck
I had my points distributor with me
I told him I could fix it (swap distributors) before he could get a tow truck there
He said OKAY, I fixed it and drove away

 

Unilite dizzy is old stuff and problematic. Switch to a small cap HEI. The later model GM HEI dizzys with coil in cap don't fit without denting firewall so stick with a small cap dizzy. I use a Pertronix module in a stock points dizzy with external coil.

 

Well after a few hours of fun and misery (100 degrees around here these days) I was able to make the 67 run and even drive it home - vintage AC working perfectly! I repaired the Unilite and got it installed including the ballast resistor and diode wire from the starter and...no joy. I was thinking on what to try next and found an older Bosch coil laying around. I had used it to ohm test it to compare the numbers to others. I decided to give it a go and the car started right up. Bad Mallory coil 29219 - that's a 1st for me. It's running better than in quite awhile. The distributor that I removed was one of those A Team distributors (not installed by me) and it must be ok. I'll save as a spare. Thank you for the ideas!