Floor replacements and Welding issues
#1
Floor replacements and Welding issues
Have a handful that I will start playing with this winter. Needs all floors, rockers and more. Questions are: When mig welding, is it true to only weld short beads in 6-10 inch increments to avoid heat? Any advantage to the one piece floor? I am inclined to leave the driveshaft tunnel alone since it is in great shape, and also to provide a factory reference point as well as maintaining structural support. Anyone that is advanced in this field may also have an opinion as to the best sequence of part replacement (rocker, quarter, floor). Thanks folks.
#2
RE: Floor replacements and Welding issues
If you are new to welding sheet metal, it is best to be very patient to start. Take extra time to tack in the new pans extra good, like tack welds every couple inches. Make certain the original metal has enough thickness to weld properly. Keep the edges of the metal as close as possible and jump around to keep heat from building up in one area. Good clean metal (sandblasted) makes welding easier too. If your floors are not too bad and you don't want to mess with the seat braces then only replace the footwells. If you do replace the entire floor, brace the car good and then brace some more to hold it straight. Basically, take your time!
#3
RE: Floor replacements and Welding issues
Thanks for that guidance, well received. The bracing is something I want to do as I break this car down. Someone had told me that there was a way to get measurements for certain critical points on the car. Ever heard of this?
#4
RE: Floor replacements and Welding issues
i would definately go with a one peice floor pan. In the end it will save you time, money, and look ten times better. You be amazed how good they look. The one peice will make sure the bodies square and the tunnel is nothing to worry about, it lines up with the front and back good as well.
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