electrical problems
#1
electrical problems
I have a 68 camaro ss/rs and i was out with it the other day and i went to start it and turned the key and nothing happened.
I checked the battery and the disconnect terminal was loose.
I tightened it and still nothing. the clock and horn were working no clicking of the starter solenoid , no headlights only the clock on my tach worked and the horn.
Called AAA for a jump they came and still no start nothing, got the car flat towed home. checked with my son he said step on the brakes and see if you have brake lights, i did but very dim.
any ideas ??????
Thanks
Ted
I checked the battery and the disconnect terminal was loose.
I tightened it and still nothing. the clock and horn were working no clicking of the starter solenoid , no headlights only the clock on my tach worked and the horn.
Called AAA for a jump they came and still no start nothing, got the car flat towed home. checked with my son he said step on the brakes and see if you have brake lights, i did but very dim.
any ideas ??????
Thanks
Ted
#2
One, externally charge battery, never hurts.
Two, use a remote starter switch across solenoid terminal S and battery stud to see if solenoid engages.
If solenoid engages and no crank, low battery and/or corroded battery terminals, both cables, both ends, disconnect them and wire brush them, reassemble.
If solenoid engages and motor cranks, could be a worn/corroded ign switch in START position. Replace ign switch.
Solenoid current runs through ign switch and contacts within may be corroded after how many times through the past years?
Three, once engine is running, at a high rpm, say 2000-2500, measure battery charge voltage, some thing above 14 volts is good.
Alternator should be warm on its case showing it is working.
When measuring battery charge voltage across posts, compare measurement between alt BATT stud and case.
Difference between the two should be less than 0.5 volts.
If more, look at horn relay below regulator, drvr side of radiator support, and you will see two red wires on a buss bar.
Place both red wires on same screw.
Also, follow positive battery cable having a pigtail connected to a junction block.
Remove terminals and wire brush them, reassemble.
If charge voltage on battery is low or non-existent, alt may be bad or regulator may be bad, or loose/bad belt. Replace as necessary.
Two, use a remote starter switch across solenoid terminal S and battery stud to see if solenoid engages.
If solenoid engages and no crank, low battery and/or corroded battery terminals, both cables, both ends, disconnect them and wire brush them, reassemble.
If solenoid engages and motor cranks, could be a worn/corroded ign switch in START position. Replace ign switch.
Solenoid current runs through ign switch and contacts within may be corroded after how many times through the past years?
Three, once engine is running, at a high rpm, say 2000-2500, measure battery charge voltage, some thing above 14 volts is good.
Alternator should be warm on its case showing it is working.
When measuring battery charge voltage across posts, compare measurement between alt BATT stud and case.
Difference between the two should be less than 0.5 volts.
If more, look at horn relay below regulator, drvr side of radiator support, and you will see two red wires on a buss bar.
Place both red wires on same screw.
Also, follow positive battery cable having a pigtail connected to a junction block.
Remove terminals and wire brush them, reassemble.
If charge voltage on battery is low or non-existent, alt may be bad or regulator may be bad, or loose/bad belt. Replace as necessary.
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