Yeah, if the cool ride with a 4 speed is what you're looking for I'd pass on this one. Changing stuff on the car doesn't really "void" the numbers matching aspect really, but I know guys that just have the original engine, transmission, axle, interior, etc in storage. For myself, I never wanted a museum piece that would go up in value, sounds like you're the same. Also, if those are how much these things cost today, I'm surprised, I knew they went up in value, but not that much, I bought in mine in 2000 for $1,500 (but as I said earlier I had to replace about 80% percent of the sheet metal so you can guess what kind of condition it was in). Another piece of advice I would say is, don't limit yourself to looking for a factory manual, that's what I did and ended up with a rust bucket 307 manual everything rather than an original rust-free RS/327 for the same price and a numbers matching 71 SS/350 that worked for 500 more. What's more is that I found out last month mine was probably not a factory original. In reality the conversion from automatic to manual is not uncommon, lots of people have done it, and done it easily. If you find one that is everything you want except for the transmission, get it and change the transmission out. These cars are so popular these days, I think it would be hard to find a modification that hasn't been done by someone else, that now makes a kit to do the same to your car. You said you're not a mechanic but that you're willing to learn, so go for it. When I bought mine I couldn't tell the difference between a wrench and a ratchet, the learning and the tinkering is half the fun.....or in my case it's all the fun because it's all I get to do.

 

The two bars shifter thing is an automatic, this car is a stick.
How much for repairs all depends on the hourly labor rates of body shops in your area. Your best bet would be to take the pictures to a known good body shop and get them to give you a "ballpark" price, one that you won't hold them to. Anyone who has done bodywork will tell you that bad surprises can turn up once you start digging. It can easily cost a grand if it is how it meets the eye. But you could hit a couple grand if there is hidden rust, or if they need to do some tugging on the rocker. If you want a car that will be more collectible, then I would go for it, as long as you have the money to get it done right. That also means you would want to keep it pretty much how it should be to be correct. If you're looking to have a 69 to start modifying, then you can find cheaper base models with less damage.

 

Before you by any 1st gen you need to check it over carefully for rust. Trunk pan, floor pans, inner fenders, radiator support, under cowl vent cover, below windshield, below rear window, on corners of top dash panel, rocker panels, hinges, doors around hinges, bottom of doors, support beams for rear roof columns (you almost have to get into the trunk to get a good look at these). Did I forget anywhere else they typically rust? If any of these areas have rust you will have to do some serious dis-assembly to fix them. If you want a numbers matching complete restore, this could be your car. If you are planning on modifying then I would say keep looking

 

X-11 could be an SS however non SS 396. I noticed the rear tail pan was painted black. Only big block SS cars received this. Also E after the 71 means it came with a white top. Not splitting hairs, but that is not numbers matching. Ask more questions.

 

Just my opinion but if the car is a rust free car and the motor and tranny are numbers matching then that is a good deal. If he has a repop quarter sell it and buy a OEM quarter. They are hard to find but it would be worth it to get the fit you want.

The bad part about body work is all the levels of repairs that are out there. I have known guys that would straighten your existing quater pound out the roof section reskin the door put layer of puddy on it and go. Some guys will want flange weld in the front part of the quater and a door skin and straighten the rest. To make it last you want to replace the parts and install them in a factory way. So don't be surpised if you get quotes from $2500-$7000 for the repair. Thats just the body work. Paint is a whole other thread

 

*Sigh*, yes, forget what I said... I dont know what I was thinking. Maybe I got was looking at one thread, walked away and responded to this thread.. who knows.... My bad.

 

13 grand for that is good in my eyes... We have 69 shells over here going for 50k, but I don't believe you will be able to get in good and running in a month unless you worked your *** off. I'm 16 now and I drool over 69 camaro's every time I see one.

 

If your looking for a numbers matching, then this car could be the one. See, for me, I didn't care about numbers matching. I just wanted a cool car that I could go to Sonic with on Friday night and have fun driving. If your looking for a cool car that's fun to drive, then I'd say keep on looking. There are cars out there in better shape for the same amount of money.

My advice, if you are really thinking about this X-11, pay someone that knows about these old muscle cars have them go through it thoroughly. Ya it might cost you a couple hundred bucks, but it could also save you thousands.