I was getting close to finishing my car to get it back on the road. Now I have noticed that the tire on the passenger side is sticking outside the fender about a 1/4 of an inch and hits the fender when driving. On the driver's side, it is inside the fender about 1/4 inch. At first, I chalked this up to the camber being off since I upgraded to disk brakes and 15" wheels on the Front. Now I have adjusted the camber and realized the wheel is sticking out of the fender. I had the subframe pulled, cleaned, and then replaced at a body shop. I am starting to think that my subframe was not put back in and aligned with the body of the car. I have no ability to go back to this place and even if I did would not.

My question is can I do this adjustment to the subframe by releasing all the bolts and not taking them out? I have no desire to take the whole car apart again.
Is there some other adjustment I can make?
At this point, I am at a loss.

 

Cross measurement from pre defined points should pin point the issue. I would not just start adjusting stuff until your sure what needs adjusted.

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...body-68-camaro I think you should be looking at the 76" (F) dimension. Note that the measurement itself is not as important as the fact they are equal to each other. Another option is the sheet metal being right. Using the sheet metal to tell if the frame is right is backwards. Normally you get the frame right they adjust the sheet metal.

 

Thank You I will do this first to make sure this is my issue. I have no desire to start over but if I do I will.

 

At the A pillar, right where the sub frame body mount bolt is, there is an alignment hole just outboard. Use a 5/8" long bolt and see if it slides in straight. These were the alignment points the factory jig used when the sub-frame & body was mounted.

With that said, IDK how much it takes to move a body with engine installed on sub-frame

 

Without taking any measurements yet I would say I will find this car all over the place. The passenger side looks good. The driver's side not so much.
Back to my first question. Can I loosen all the bolts and make this adjustment without taking the fenders and hood off? Everything is in the car and I was getting ready to put in the Glass. Then this little monster appeared. Once again the first body shop has sc****d me.

Passenger Side

Driver Side

 

Can you do it, well you can try. If the body man has already pushed everything over as far as he could it may not move much more. You would need to re-align everything forward of the doors if you can get the sub to move. You are using the tire position to make adjustments? If so you need to be 100% the suspension is not what needs adjusted. That is done with measuring factory unibody points.

The worse case is the car was weld back together wrong. This normally happens when the car has rust issues and it flexes. Then new metal is welded into place while the body is in this flexed shape. This is why the better shops use body jigs to hold everything in place while they weld. I have run into this once before. It can take more work to undo the errors then the original repairs cost. I don’t say this to scare you I just wanted you to understand how important it is that you truly understand what is wrong. I would hate to see go through all this just to find out the subframe is bend.

 

OK guys... here is a rookie opinion. Hope it helps or at least give a kick start in ideas.

I wouldn't start unbolting everything unless you know that this will fix the problem. The factory used those holes to line up the frame and body, but by the time final bolt down was complete, the holes didn't always line up.
If I'm picturing the movement of the body vs the frame and you line up the hole, this should pull the drive side frame back to the body. Now your car will pull to the left. You would then need to re-align your steering again, but that part I'm not the one to help?

You could do this, just need to support the engine/frame and body floating separately and release as much pressure from the body mounts as possible. Put the body on a fixed support system and the frame/tires on a dolly system so it can move separately (or opposite... which ever would be easier). Make sure the frame is level, don't want it to tilt forward or back. Will create pinch points and would be hard to move. Should not have to loosen sheet metal. The panels, radiator support and other should need to stay stationary as you try and twist the frame underneath. Have take look at the front bumpers too and loosen any parts that attach the frame to body panels. There should be enough give in the front radiator mount bolts to move 1/4". Have to keep any eye on your steering column too. May have to disconnect at the rag joint and hope you don't have to adjust the entire steering inside the dash when re-assembling. Find a way to mark the current location of the frame to body. This way you know if you have moved the frame in the direction you need and distance.

If you loosen all your panels, the entire front end of your car will move with the frame and your tire will still stick out. Got to move just the frame.

It will be tough, very tough and take your time... I have to do this too as I re-assemble my 68' so I will be back on this forum for questions too.

 

The only good news is that this car had almost zero rust so there was no welding done. They took the sub-frame off to media blast the car and repair (like crap) a few fender rust holes.
I see I have a mighty challenge ahead of me.
I have to find a good way to do all my measurements first and also determine if the sub-frame is bent. Good thing fall is in the air.