'67 Brakes pulling left when applied
This one has me stumped. 1967 manual drum brakes. Everything on this car is new, suspension, brakes shoes drums spindles, master cylinder, tires etc. Just had the front end aligned, car runs straight. When you apply the brakes the car does a hard pull to the left. When jacked up the brakes seem to work evenly on both front wheels. Spinning the wheels they both seem to have the same drag. No brake fluid leaking anywhere.
What am I missing here??
What am I missing here??
New brake lines and wheel cylinders too?
Pedal feel solid not spongy at all?
If that's all good I would have to assume adjustment is off on one side or something was mounted wrong.
Pretty simple system so there's not a lot else it can be.
Might want to pull the drums off and have a look see.
Pedal feel solid not spongy at all?
If that's all good I would have to assume adjustment is off on one side or something was mounted wrong.
Pretty simple system so there's not a lot else it can be.
Might want to pull the drums off and have a look see.
Brake pedal is solid. Yes new drums, lines and cylinders. Pulled the drums off looks fine no brake fluid leaks. Think I'll bleed the front lines again. Jacked up and pushing the brake pedal the brakes are working, but maybe pressure is not the same on both sides.
Should mention that the car a 44,000 mile car was completely restored by the second owner in 2003. The car then sat for the next 17 years until purchased this year. Zero miles for last 17 years!
Yes it appears that the complete brake system was re-done. New lines portioning value, etc. The only thing that has been done to it since I purchased it is a completely new fuel system tank to carb., alignment and new tires.
I'll change the brake fluid, re-adjust the brakes and check to see that all the brakes were installed correctly.
Let you know how it comes out. If anything else comes to mind to check let me know.
Thanks.
Yes it appears that the complete brake system was re-done. New lines portioning value, etc. The only thing that has been done to it since I purchased it is a completely new fuel system tank to carb., alignment and new tires.
I'll change the brake fluid, re-adjust the brakes and check to see that all the brakes were installed correctly.
Let you know how it comes out. If anything else comes to mind to check let me know.
Thanks.
If the right rear is locking up it will pull left also. Have you tried spinning the right front tire while somebody is pushing on the brake pedal.
"What am I missing here?? " A front disc brake system. You owe it to yourself and your passengers to improve the stopping power of that cars 4 wheel drum braking system. Just my two cents...
"What am I missing here?? " A front disc brake system. You owe it to yourself and your passengers to improve the stopping power of that cars 4 wheel drum braking system. Just my two cents...
Problem solved. Drained all the old brake fluid out, flushed with alcohol, added new brake fluid and bled the system. A lot of nasty stuff came out of it. I believe what was happening was the right wheel cylinder was clogged up so that it was not getting the same pressure as the left wheel, causing the car to pull to the left.
As to disc bakes, the car as I mentioned above was restored in 2003. It was an all numbers matching car restored for shows and judging. At this time I haven't decided to keep it as restored or to make some modifications, such as disc brakes to make it more of a driver.
As to disc bakes, the car as I mentioned above was restored in 2003. It was an all numbers matching car restored for shows and judging. At this time I haven't decided to keep it as restored or to make some modifications, such as disc brakes to make it more of a driver.
So put the J52 disc brake parts on it. Do you have brand new 15 year old bias ply tires on it? Those will need replacing. Flushing the brakes with alcohol will damage the rubber in the wheel cylinders. The wheel cylinders are probably pitted from the moisture over all those years (water is heavier than brake fluid and sinks to the lowest point). The only way a judge would know it's not a disc brake car is with the build sheet. Drive it and enjoy it! Life's too short....
Fourth Generation Moderator
October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,560
From: Eastern PA,
ROTM Winner's Club
I agree 100% with Al, alcohol will degrade the seals in the master cylinder, wheel cylinder and calipers. The only time alcohol should be used is when switching to DOT 5 brake fluid and it is recommended to replace all the seals anyway. Minerals sprites is the only thing that should be used to flush a brake system besides brake fluid.
Thinking that a 15 year old brakes system that has sat unused for 15 years is like new could not be more incorrect. Sitting is one of the worst things you can to a brake system. Time is a factor for seals and the soft hoses. Ask any long term Vett owns that parks his car every year for the winter. Moisture is also a huge factor. I have seen Vetts less than 10 year old with 2000 miles on them with calipers so bad they had to be replaced. In fact many owners switch to stainless systems before the brakes even start to fail just to avoid the issues caused by sitting.
The alcohol will have soften the seals but they are a lot more prone to ripping. IMO the car is not safe to drive. Total master cylinder failure would not be surprising.
Here is the most likely case. Your flexible hoses degraded due to time. That trapped brake fluid pressure in one of the wheel cylinder which cause the car to pull. A VERY common issue and hose life is totally based on time NOT miles. Your alcohol softened the inside of the degrading hose so it started working better. It also softened the hoses. Not something you want because now they are more prone to rupturing.
Thinking that a 15 year old brakes system that has sat unused for 15 years is like new could not be more incorrect. Sitting is one of the worst things you can to a brake system. Time is a factor for seals and the soft hoses. Ask any long term Vett owns that parks his car every year for the winter. Moisture is also a huge factor. I have seen Vetts less than 10 year old with 2000 miles on them with calipers so bad they had to be replaced. In fact many owners switch to stainless systems before the brakes even start to fail just to avoid the issues caused by sitting.
The alcohol will have soften the seals but they are a lot more prone to ripping. IMO the car is not safe to drive. Total master cylinder failure would not be surprising.
Here is the most likely case. Your flexible hoses degraded due to time. That trapped brake fluid pressure in one of the wheel cylinder which cause the car to pull. A VERY common issue and hose life is totally based on time NOT miles. Your alcohol softened the inside of the degrading hose so it started working better. It also softened the hoses. Not something you want because now they are more prone to rupturing.
Last edited by Gorn; Mar 3, 2018 at 01:46 PM.
Problem solved. Drained all the old brake fluid out, flushed with alcohol, added new brake fluid and bled the system. A lot of nasty stuff came out of it. I believe what was happening was the right wheel cylinder was clogged up so that it was not getting the same pressure as the left wheel, causing the car to pull to the left.
As to disc bakes, the car as I mentioned above was restored in 2003. It was an all numbers matching car restored for shows and judging. At this time I haven't decided to keep it as restored or to make some modifications, such as disc brakes to make it more of a driver.
As to disc bakes, the car as I mentioned above was restored in 2003. It was an all numbers matching car restored for shows and judging. At this time I haven't decided to keep it as restored or to make some modifications, such as disc brakes to make it more of a driver.
how do you drain the system and how do you flush it out like you did?
thanks!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
57Vette
67-69 Wheels, Tires and Exterior
1
May 10, 2016 12:31 PM



