She started right up to day and moved all by her self. Do to the injectors she was dumping a lot of fuel since she has not been tuned yet but its a good sign . I had planed on holding off until the old trany gave out before replacing her and going to something like 2800-3200 converter but now i almost fill like its a must. And if i am going to have the converter out i might as well bolt up the new transmission why i am at it. Of course if i do that then my next big challenge is my freaking rear . The good news is the factory transmission is still in very good condition so i think i might keep it around a little bit for possible future projects...

 

Calling RPM some time this morning. The car should be just about ready for her first dyno runs. Once we get a good base line and figure out where we are at she will go back under the knife for the list below.

RPM stage 5 4L65/4L60 transmission
RPM Speced 3200 converter
New transmission cooler and temp gauge.
Imperial 3 inch aluminum drive shaft
Built ford 9 Inch some wear in the 3.40-3.60 gear range

There is still a lot to be worked out with the rear end as far as locker and gears go. I will post more details after i talk to the experts Jason and Ryan tonight.

Welcome to the true cost of Forced Induction my friends. What started as a budget build over 2 years ago is about to brake over the 10K mark in Parts alone.n.... Money well spent in my book

This may all seam very expensive but doing it right the first time and improving on the cars week points now will pave the way for future projects to come latter this spring .

 

Ok after talking to Jason and putting down the deposit for the parts the only real change was the rear. He has insured me that he can build one mean 12 bolt. The same set up that RPM is running in his 700 horse 300 shot SS.

12 BOLT (Yes he talked me out of the 9inch)
35 spline axles,
no abs or abs/tcs,
spool,
3.42 gear, (turbos like long gears)
iron center section,
backbracing,
lower control arm relocation brackets. (bottom hole gives you much better traction out of the hole)
5/8 wheel studs.(This is a cheap mod that i recommend to any one running stickies or any thing over well bolted.... They pay for them selves the first time you need them)

 

actually turbos like shorter gears, so you stay in gear longer to build boost better

 

Ummm i could be wrong but when you say short you mean close right. And when you say long you mean far apart. A short gear would be a closer ratio so you would not build boost as long. I could be totally wrong.

 

i was just told that by a buddy of mine, he has a 2000 SS with 2.73 gears and a 88mm turbo

 

No we are both on the same page. When i say long gears i mean lower ratio's. And when you say shorter gears i think of higher ratio's but what you are trying to say is lower. We are both tracking on the same idea just wording it different .

3.73s would be starting to get high on a turbo application. 2.73 is not unheard at all.

 

Just curious to why the guy didnt recommend the 9 inch ford. You will need the c clip eliminators with the full spool does he have any problems with these leaking from street use?

 

No not at all. Some guys like the 12 bolt some like the 9 inch. I am personally a 12 bolt guy and have seen plenty of 700+ horse 12 bolts. Since my power goals will never go above 600 i can get away with the 12 bolt just fine. It is also a couple of bucks cheaper then the 9 inch.

 

I have to ugrade the 12 bolt I have in the car once I get the new engine in it, I put the superior axles in it and put the heavy spring pack in the eaton(it had the factory steel clutch pack in it) its held up fine so far. It has what I believe are factory 4:56 gears in it. From what I am told the 12 bolt uses less power to turn it compaired to the 9 inch.